The reality of concrete

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Concrete, as the most used building material worldwide has a huge impact on our cities, societies and environment. Much of our research is based on the idea to create an alternative solution for conventional methods of building, such as building with concrete. In this article, we will tackle basic and relevant knowledge and information about concrete, to understand why it is important to think about alternative solutions for the future of our building habits. This write-up will be part of a series of small papers related to meaningful knowledge, to understand why it’s urgent to rethink our conventional building approaches.

Concrete, cement & mortar – definitions

To give a brief overview of what we are talking about in specific, we will first define the most important terminologies that we will need to understand the whole topic around concrete.
Four important terms you should know about and understand their exact definitions: 

Diagram showing the composition of concrete
Typical composition of concrete

cement  // səˈment

Cement is the key ingredient to mix concrete. This product is mainly made out of crushed limestone mixed with shales and slates, shredded to a fine powder and heated up to approximately 1450°C. The heat causes a chemical reaction, also known as calcination.[1] That reaction along with the heating process causes a high amount of carbon-dioxide emissions, which makes cement production a big driver of greenhouse gas emissions. The entire process happens in a giant mixer, called a cement kiln. [2] The most popular kind of cement is portland cement, developed in England in the early 19th century. [3]

concrete // ˈkänˌkrēt

Concrete is an artificial building material, which consists of a binding agent like cement or lime, in addition to water and aggregates (sand and gravel) as well as potential  additives (like fly ash or plasticizers). The cementitious part gets liquified with water. By adding water to the cement a chemical reaction is caused and the process of crystallization begins. In the next step some additives such as gravel and sand are added. These aggregates are held together by the liquified cement. Once the whole mixture is cured, this process will finish with a solidified product, called concrete.

mortar // ˈmôrdər

Mortar is a workable paste, used to bind bricks, stones or to fill gaps and holes. The basis is made out of a binding agent (such as slaked lime, ash or, most commonly nowadays, cement) added with water and a fine aggregate, mainly sand. 

Mortar is one of the oldest building materials, used for many thousand years. For a long time, slaked lime, volcanic ashes or clay worked as a binding agent. During the nineteenth century portland cement was invented. From that time cementitious mortar rose in popularity and replaced the old binding products.

These two kinds of mortar differ in two ways. On the one hand cementitious mortars usually are more workable due to faster curing, higher water resistance and less cracking, on the other hand non-cementitious mortars significantly cut greenhouse emissions while processing. It even can absorb CO2, which appears to happen when lime mortar cracks, so that air (especially CO2) can be absorbed. By absorbing CO2, lime mortar is even molding and gets even stronger.[4] To put it plainly:  it’s an environmentally friendly and more sustainable alternative.

reinforced concrete // ˈˌrēinˈfôrst ˈkänˌkrēt

In most cases concrete is combined with steel rebars, to compensate for the low tensile strength. The capability of concrete to react on compressive load is ten times bigger than the capability to bear tension loads.[5]

A more advanced and further developed version of conventionally reinforced concrete is prestressed concrete. To make concrete structures more durable against tensile forces, tendons, a high performing kind of rebar gets tensioned. Mainly these tendons are wires or threaded rebars. When applying in the casted concrete, the concrete part gets compressed, which gives the structure a higher performance, while being in service. [6]

Why is cement concrete so popular?

There are many reasons for its popularity: its liquid stone characteristics were revolutionary and created the possibility to make nearly every form out of concrete.

Cement concrete structures can be segmented and precast, making it suitable for big construction projects; and once solidified, it is a very strong material with the ability to bear high amounts of load. Designers adopted the versatile material, and nowadays we find furniture and accessories made of this material, in every kind of shape.

The use of concrete can be dated back to the ancient times. Romans mastered the use of hydraulic lime as a binding agent, called “opus caementicium”. After the fall of the Roman empire, the use of concrete faded, till it got resurrected in the early 19th century. Instead of using hydraulic lime, portland cement, a further development of the ancient version, was invented and led to a big rise in popularity of concrete in building industries. The first buildings during this time were bridges, foundations and harbours, facilitated by the compressive strength and workability of the new material.[7] 

In the late 19th century iron rods, and later steel rebars, were added to poured concrete to increase tensile strength. It was mainly developed by the French Joseph Monier [8]  – an invention which is ubiquitous in building industries nowadays. This invention led to a big rise in popularity in the residential and social housing sector. In comparison to conventional houses in those days, new concrete based housing projects were more durable, termite and fire resistant. The workability of concrete made it fast and easy to use on site. Pre-castable and serial development of construction elements cut costs significantly. In the 50s of the last century, concrete played a major role in evolving the architectural style of Brutalism, a socio-aesthetically driven architecture movement of showing raw, honest constructions often used for big scale civic and public projects. This architectural style was a dominating force during the next two decades. [9]

In addition, the raw materials of concrete are available in large quantities around the globe, which makes concrete cheap to produce. Limestone, sand and gravel are quite cheap. The main processing costs are caused by the cement production. 

What quantity of resources are needed to produce cement concrete?

Image showing 3.8t of concrete per person globally

There are four main components of cement concrete (cement, water, sand and gravel). For reinforced concrete, there is an additional component – steel. Besides these materials, there are more raw resources needed to produce the main ingredients. To produce one tonne of cement, approximately two tonnes of raw limestone are necessary. [10] The production of cement is a high energy consuming process. One ton of cement takes about 120 kWh of energy in process heating. This energy is mainly obtained from fossil fuels and burning waste. [11]

The cement concrete recipe

There are several different recipes for making concrete. The recipes mainly differ in the ratio of cement and the added aggregates. Concrete can be mixed with different ratios to get a higher load bearing capacity or to get a higher ability to withstand different exposures, such as seawater, moisture or frost.

The following recipes just give you a basic overview about how a classic mixture of concrete could look like:
A standard concrete mix consists of 1 part water (7,7%), 2 parts cement (15,4%) , 4 parts sand (30,7%) and 6 parts gravel (46,1%). [12] 

The higher the load the more cement you’ll need (f.e. a concrete column, foundation needs 1 part water (11,1%), 2 parts cement (22,2%), 2 parts sand (22,2%) and 4 parts gravel (44,4%) ).
Around 70% of the built concrete constructions are reinforced with steel, so you would usually have to add a certain percentage of steel rebars to the produced concrete (60-80 kg/m3 of concrete).[13]

That means a ton of average concrete consists of:

77 kg of water (7,7%)154 kg of cement (15,4%)307 kg of sand (30,7%)461 kg of gravel (46,1%)
Components of concrete
Components of 1 tonne of concrete

Where is concrete used?

The use of cement concrete has various fields of application in construction and design. Since it was developed in the early XIXth century as a powerful structural material, it can be found in several constructive elements. The constructive elements made out of concrete can be summed up in three main categories:

massive built horizontal and vertical load bearing elements such as foundations and walls, used for small to middle scale buildings, such as residential housing.filigree skeleton construction elements, such as pillars and beams, mainly found in high rise buildings and large scale commercial buildingsspecial construction elements for infrastructural and exceptional building typologies, such as bridges, tunnels, dams or bunkers.

Where is concrete useful?

Nowadays concrete is used in many different ways. All constructive elements can be made in concrete and in most cases they are realized with this material.
But is it really necessary to replace other common construction methods with concrete?
It makes sense to use concrete in constructions, where load bearing elements have to bear big compressive strengths. A high rise a few hundred meters high? A tunnel? A dam? For sure! – There are fields of application, where no other material performs as well as concrete but in many cases concrete is used in small scale projects, where it is unnecessary and over proportioned.

How sustainable is cement concrete?

Concrete is certainly one of the building materials which gives a nearly unlimited range of use. As mentioned before, there are many upsides to using concrete. But there are always two sides of the coin.

A general definition for sustainability is meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs. Sustainability is often discussed in environmental terms. It can also be related to two other important topics: society and economy.

Obvious and hidden impacts on our environment

Graph showing global concrete emission percentages
Pie chart comparison between countries CO2 emissions and cement production

The impact on our environment caused by the cement industry and by building with concrete is enormous. The production of cement is a high energy consuming process. This energy is mainly obtained from fossil fuels or burning waste [14] In addition the chemical process of producing cement releases one molecule of carbon-dioxide per each molecule of calcium silicate hydrate. For each ton of produced cement, one ton of CO2 is emitted just by chemically processing it [15] Besides the vast amount of carbon dioxide emitted, many other hazardous air pollutants such as NOX or PM10 are emitted during the process. [16]

Cement is just one part of concrete. The added aggregates, such as gravel and sand, are mined in humongous amounts to cover the demand of concrete industries. Many environmental systems are suffering from negative effects such as land loss by erosion, destruction of natural habitats, sealing and contamination of soil. Some of these aggregates, especially sand, have to be shipped around the world to service demands. [17] Just to give a short glimpse of one of the biggest cruxes in world of the concrete industries – new developing middle-east states, such as the United Arab Emirates or Qatar have to import big amounts of sand to service their huge demand in building industries, despite the fact that cities like Dubai or Qatar are located in the middle of sandy deserts. [18] However, not all of the sand we can find on the globe is suitable for concrete production; desert sand is too fine and round to be used as an aggregate. [19]
Furthermore, concrete production is a thirsty industry. It needs almost 10% of annual industrial water withdrawal, and 75% of the concrete production takes place in regions which are already facing water stress and drought. [20]

Beside this, the impact on society has to be emphasized. The internationalization of architecture and modern building technologies have a negative influence on vernacular building technologies and local architecture. New buildings tend to be built in a modern way with modern materials, such as concrete. Cost efficiency, the establishment of new building technologies and the time aspect are reasons for a significant decrease of traditionally built projects. 

Impact of globalization and industrialisation on building traditions.

Diagram showing concrete accounts for 66% of building materials
Comparison between the use of concrete and other building materials

One of the main issues caused by that situation is the loss of building knowledge and traditions. Traditional building techniques are being replaced by modern approaches. Around the world, houses and cities have been built according to local tradition for centuries. Now, knowledge that was gained in a long and enduring process is about to get lost in a few decades. 

Main drivers for the loss of vernacular architecture are caused by the growing globalization and industrialization of the world. Innovations in building technologies can be spread easily around a fully connected world. Rare materials not locally available can be easily shipped from anywhere – and they get transferred in humongous amounts around the planet. 

Downcycling cement concrete

The economic sustainability of concrete is always mentioned as a big pro. Nonetheless there are a few facts which are not properly taken into consideration. The production of concrete is cheap in comparison to other materials. A main reason for this, is that the aggregates you need to mix concrete are available in large quantities almost everywhere around the planet. But in recent times the local availability of certain components, such as sand are diminishing. [21] Our resources on the planet are finite, so using and monetizing resources as if they are infinite is unsustainable. To address this, the concrete industry tries to emphasize their product as recyclable, but to make it clear – concrete is not recyclableRecycling means, returning a material into a previous stage of a cyclic process. In case of the mentioned material, this is not completely possible. During calcination, the processing of the raw resource of limestone comes to a point of no return. Once cement is made, the process is irreversible. There is no commercially viable process to recycle it.[22] Recent reusing methods of concrete consist of shredding it and mainly using it as gritting material for infrastructural projects. In some cases this crushed concrete can be used as an aggregate to partly substitute gravel in concrete. Nevertheless these substitutes are small in numbers and in the end new concrete still requires additional water, cement, sand and gravel [23] Technically, the recent approaches to recycling concrete can be better named downcycling processes or a kind of mitigation. Many experts criticize the bigger potential of reusing shredded concrete for new concrete projects, [24] an effort which should be broadened in the future. 

Contradictive durability of concrete structures

Many proponents often mention concretes’ durability as a big pro. The use of concrete without adding any other materials (such as rebars, made out of metal) technically creates a very durable building material. Despite, most of the applied concrete is reinforced to be able to react on tensile stress. But the application of reinforced concrete in terms of durability is a contradiction in terms. Here nature inevitably can shorten the life span of buildings built out of reinforced concrete. Due to different thermal expansions and the inevitable inheritation of oxidation of the used steel rebars, concrete constructions suffer fast deterioration during their lifespan. Recent studies have shown that there is a 50% chance of reinforced concrete structures to not fulfill their service in terms of load bearing after just 35 years of use. [25]

What can be used instead of cement based concrete?

Concrete as a kind of fluid stone has found use in all fields of construction. But is it always necessary to use concrete? There are new materials and also tried and trusted methods of building which have mostly been replaced by concrete solutions. The replacement of conventional portland cement based concrete can cut greenhouse gas emissions and other environmental impacts significantly. Basically there are two main ways to avoid a humongous use of classic portland cement based concrete. The first one is to substitute or avoid the most polluting ingredient of classic concrete, portland cement. In a second scenario different building approaches with alternating materials or other building techniques can be applied.

Cement substitutes

First of all, portland cement based concrete mostly can be substituted by pulverized fly ash (PFA), which is a side product of coal burning processes. Another substitute with a big potential is Ground Granulated Blast-furnace Slag (GGBS), which is able to replace portland cement up to 90%. GGBS substituted concrete sets more slowly than concrete made with ordinary portland cement. The higher the amount of GGBS in the cement mix the longer it takes to cure. Besides this, a positive side effect of using GGBS substituted concrete is that it continues to gain strength over a longer period leading to improved overall durability and life expectancy. [26] Nevertheless the mentioned substitutes are by-products of other industries, such as coal, steel or aluminium production, which also have an enormous negative impact on our environment.

Green concrete

During the last decade several scientists started working on green alternatives for concrete. The most advanced approaches use micro organisms such as algae, bacteria or fungi for biocement production (CaCO3) by using the metabolic activity of these microorganisms. [27,28] Some of these bioproducts achieve similar specifics as classic portland cement and present a feasible and viable alternative to conventional portland cement based concrete.

lternative construction methods

Besides an ingredient-related replacement of conventional concrete, there are many tried and trusted construction methods which were applied in vernacular building styles and local architecture traditions. There is no convincing evidence that justifies concrete as the ultimate building material for most building tasks.

This table aims to present a series of more ecologically friendly solutions for common uses of cement concrete:

construction elementclassic building material
to be replaced / substitutedeco friendly alternative (not exhaustive)foundationsreinforced concretetyre foundation (for point foundations) [29]
gabion foundations [30]pillarsreinforced concrete
steelwooden constructions (bamboo, pine, GLT – glue laminated timber)
cardboard tubeswalls(reinforced) concrete
bricks
steel sandwich panelswooden constructions (CLT – cross laminated timber, framework constructions)
rammed earth (clay)
hempcrete
bricksflooringcement based screedclay 
wooden planks roofsreinforced concrete (flat roofs)
steel sandwich panelswooden constructions
thatched roofs
green roofs
hempcretepathingcement based pavement
asphaltnatural stone :
cobblestone, granite plastergypsum based plaster
cement based plastercardboard + lime plaster [31]
hempcrete plaster
straw clay based plaster

Conclusion

Concrete plays a major role in building industries. The further development of newly industrializing economies with huge demands on concrete are driving the ongoing trend of a growing concrete industry. Beside its advantages and big popularity, concrete brings a lot of negative impacts on global warming, environmental systems, building culture and social city development. It is important to mention that concrete lacks recyclability. The present system around the concrete industry can be summed up as a cradle-to-grave system. Resources are extracted, used and then wasted and dumped or downcycled in the best case scenario. Due to the chemical process, cement, the most important ingredient of conventional concrete, will never be recyclable, which underlines the unsustainability of a whole industry. Its fast and wide availability and low costs in production make it popular for many large scale projects. 

Nevertheless there are recent approaches to develop more sustainable alternatives to the classic portland cement-based concrete by trying to avoid or minimize the use of cementitious components, aiming for a better reusability and recyclability of resources. 

In addition, investigating forgotten vernacular solutions reopens fields of research to move forward to a more environmentally respectful architecture. Stay tuned on our continuous research, on social media and if you can and feel like supporting the initiative, make a small donation on our Patreon! 

Sources

[1] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B978008034720250023X , opened 12.08.2020

[2] https://www.britannica.com/technology/cement-building-material/Extraction-and-processing , opened 12.08.2020

[3] https://www.screedscientist.com/portland-cement-a-brief-history/ , opened 18.08.2020

[4]  Quantitative Analysis of CO2 Uptake and Mechanical … – MDPIwww.mdpi.com › pdf , opened 23.09.2020

[5] https://diglib.tugraz.at/download.php?id=576a7195cc9f9&location=browse , opened 11.08.2020

[6] 372R-13 Guide to Design and Construction of Circular Wire-and-Strand-Wrapped Prestressed Concrete Structures , 2013

[7] Historic Concrete in Scotland Part 1: history and Developmentpub-prod-sdk.azurewebsites.net › api , opened 13.08.2020

[8] https://www.britannica.com/biography/Joseph-Monier , opened 13.08.2020

[9] https://www.architectureanddesign.com.au/features/list/a-look-at-brutalist-architecture , opened 20.08.2020

[10] http://ecosmartconcrete.com/?page_id=208 , opened 12.08.2020

[11] https://global-recycling.info/pdf/GLOBAL-RECYCLING_2-2019 , opened 11.08.2020

[12] https://www.marshalls.co.uk/gardens-and-driveways/blog/how-to-mix-cement-to-make-mortar-or-concrete

[13] https://diglib.tugraz.at/download.php?id=576a7195cc9f9&location=browse , opened 26.07.2020

[14] https://global-recycling.info/pdf/GLOBAL-RECYCLING_2-2019 , opened 11.08.2020

[15] http://ecosmartconcrete.com/?page_id=208 , opened 12.08.2020

[16] http://ecosmartconcrete.com/?page_id=208 , opened 13.08.2020[1] http://ecosmartconcrete.com/?page_id=208 , opened 13.08.2020

[17] https://www.globalconstructionreview.com/news/shifting-sands-concrete-hungry-singapore-orders-mi/ , opened 28.07.2020

[18] https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20160502-even-desert-city-dubai-imports-its-sand-this-is-why , opened 19.08.2020

[19] https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20160502-even-desert-city-dubai-imports-its-sand-this-is-why , opened 19.08.2020

[20] https://www.nature.com/articles/s41893-017-0009-5.epdf , opened 26.07.2020

[21] https://www.globalconstructionreview.com/news/shifting-sands-concrete-hungry-singapore-orders-mi/ , opened 29.07.2020

[22] CSI-RecyclingConcrete-FullReport.pdf , opened 29.07.2020

[23] https://www.archdaily.com/933616/is-it-possible-to-recycle-concrete, opened 30.07.2020

[24] https://eu-recycling.com/Archive/22163 , opened 30.07.2020

[25] https://www.structuremag.org/?p=9459 , opened 18.08.2020

[26] https://www.greenspec.co.uk/building-design/concrete-cement-substitutes/ , opened 25.08.2020

[27] https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/10/11/4079#abstract , opened 25.08.2020

[28] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2215017X18302923 , opened 25.08.2020

[29] https://criticalconcrete.com/tyre-foundations/ , opened 25.08.2020

[30] http://bristolgreenhouse.co.uk/site/foundations.html , opened 25.08.2020

[31] https://criticalconcrete.com/out-of-the-box-vol-3/ , opened 25.08.2020

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Charring Station

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In the former articles was explained some of the advantages to be found within these ancient  common methods of charring wood. Historically and within many cultures, there are a myriad of charring modalities. In this article you will find adapted and illustrate one of those methods using a small wood burning flash oven that can effectively provide the charring levels needed without overtly case timber that has been dried too rapidly. This leads to reversed stresses; compression stresses on the shell and tension stresses in the core. This results in unrelieved stress called case hardening.[1]) the wood items placed through it. In this article we explain how our charring station is built and how it works. Charring systems like this one have been commonly found in many cultures and this is an adapted version of several of those [2]. It is adaptable, is easy to operate and runs without the use of gas or special tools. All that is needed are some (fire) bricks and scrap wood for fuel.

Counter-intuitively, charring wood has several astonishing advantages without involving any chemicals or additional energy consumption. The idea is to sear the surface of the wood without combusting the whole piece nor damaging the interstitial aspects of the wood so it will not warp over time. Besides giving the material an interesting and unique look, the process leads to a triple protection, all without the need of repeating the process after some time has past:

fire protection – charring the surface starts a superficial carbonation of the material and thus lowers the thermal conductivity. termite and mold protection – charring wood destroys the wood’s nutritional value to insects and fungi.water protection – the enhanced carbonation gives the charred layer a waterproof resistance, as water slips on burned wood like over an oily surface.

The easiest and most popular way to char wood commonly found today is probably with a blow torch. This can work, but regrettably too often performed without the attention to detail not to stress the wood from within. It’s easy and practical,  especially for small or irregular pieces but has to be performed with caution. But when searing many big wooden pieces it is slow and uses a lot of gas. These searing modalities are not to be confused with traditional Japanese, 焼杉 (Yakisugi) which is often misrepresented as 焼き杉 (aka shou-sugi-ban”) [3] – us included, in our previous articles!.

Yakisugi can only be achieved with a limited range of Cypress species found on the islands of Japan[4] and is a very unique process found within several methods of crafting guilds. The most commonly seen being where three planks of wood get bound together to form a long triangle and a fire is started in the resulting tube. There are several other methods, but they are for very specific formats and within context to only yakisugi and not the charing modalities found within other cultures.This technique works well only when you have similar boards, as it’s complicated to set up when boards have different widths and lengths.


Terunobu Fujimori, Tea House, Barbican. Photo Ben Tynegate

The birth of the charring station

This contemporary oven is based on some of the principles of a rocket stove. The main idea is to create a fire within a brick tube, which will become very concentrated and strong due to the tube-generated draft-effect (for more explanation on this and general information, check our articles on rocket stoves). Just over the burning material, where the fire is very strong, there will be small slots on the opposing sides of the tunnel. The wood, which needs to be seared, can be passed easily through the fire and thus be charred fast and safely.

After this oven was created with commonly available materials which enables us to char planks and boards of different sizes in an effective manner. This oven also allows the operator safety by lowering the risk of burning their hands, while also providing more control of searing the wood and less waste of fuels which is then more environmentally friendly.

How does the charring station work


Author: Melana Jäckels

1 – The main part is a L-shaped tunnel. On the bottom it has an opening on the side, where the air goes in and it flows all the way through the tunnel up to the upper opening. 

2 – Right after the curve, the fireplace is based on a second layer. Its bottom has two small gaps for the air to pass and to allow the finer ash to fall.

3 – It is important to have a tunnel that is at least 5 cm wider than the boards you plan to char. If a board fills the whole wide of the tunnel it stops the draft and decreases the fire.

4 – On the same level as the fire is also the stair-like firewood intake. The fire is started and fed from here. It’s important to have a brick to close the firewood intake so it does not disturb the air draft in the moments no wood is inserted.

5 – In the chimney, right above the fire, there are two vertical slots on opposing sides to insert the wood you want to char.

6 – Above the inserting slots the chimney narrows slowly. This is important to not happen in a sudden step, as it otherwise will decrease the draft and create a lot of smoke coming out of every small gap.

Building your own charring station

For our charring station we used 12 big bricks (ca. 29x18x9), around 70 medium-sized, red bricks (ca. 23x10x7) and 5 fireproof bricks (22x10x2). Depending on what is available, numbers and materials might be adjusted. Before starting the building process, it is important to choose a big outside space, which is not too windy and has a relatively leveled ground, with enough space on each side of the station to pass the board through.

Step by step:

First, we made a fire-resistant base which is leveled and flat. For this we used the big bricks

Afterwards we started to build a tunnel for the air intake with dimensions of 90 to 25cm. It is important that it is stable and possible to close with removable bricks on the sides

We covered the tunnel with the red bricks and left two gaps of about 1,5 cm each as seen in the picture. 

The fireplace gets covered with fireproof bricks and the next line of bricks is put on all sides

To protect the walls, we also placed fireproof bricks around the fireplace


The next step is to build the J-shaped intake with steps made of bricks, towards the fireplace. It is important to make sure its height will match up with the next row of bricks


Now it is time to create the slots where the to be charred boards will be inserted. For that we put two bricks flat across from each other. This  station works  well for boards with a maximum width of 16 cm. If you plan to use a roller stand, make sure the height of your slots measured from the ground is adapted to the height of the roller stand)


Above the slots we continued building the chimney in the original diameter for a few more rows, but then we start to become narrower by changing the order of the bricks

In this timelapse video you can see how we built up the station in 10 seconds!

How to use the Charring Station

Before starting, make sure to have the right equipment (fire resistant gloves, a mask, a bucket of water / sand, and a fire extinguisher) and enough material to burn! If you want to char a big quantity of wood it is also quite handy to have rolling stands.

Starting the fire works best when you build a little teepee out of dry kidlings and put some sawdust on it, light up the tip of a rolled paper (A4 is enough), and move it slowly into the directions of the teepee. Besides you can put another burning paper over the chimney, to facilitate the draft-effect. 

To avoid unnecessary interruptions, it is important to have a constant refilling of firewood. As soon as the fire burns strongly, the opening of the firewood intake can be closed and the boards can be inserted through the slots. Inside, the strong and concentrated fire will char the surface of the wood from below and the sides. The boards should be pushed through the fire in small steps to have a satisfying and regular result. After the first part of a board is charred, it can be taken out and pushed upturned through the fire again until both sides are completely charred. If the results are not satisfying, the pace should be adapted. Depending on the size, form and species of the wood it will take its respective time to finish one piece.

Once the board is charred it should be brushed with a metal brush and oiled. As the charring process dries the wood very rapidly, depending on its nature it might have a tendency to crack. The linseed oil will nurture the wood and compensate for this effect. For more information on this see our article on Natural Wood Protection.

Conclusion

We are using this method for a while now and we are super satisfied with the results. Not only we save time but also we are more independent of gas. The work with the charring station is safe and convenient. The station is easily adaptable and can be modified to different dimensions. We are looking forward to using the station in the future and improving it further. 

Check our YouTube video for a step-by-step tutorial how to build up your own station!

We would like to sincerely thank Jay C. White Cloud for his time, valuable input and collaboration on this research.

How to store food outside of the fridge

Sources

[1] Wikipedia “Wood drying”, [Online] available at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_drying (Last accessed in July 2020) 

[2] Jay C. White Cloud [Tosa Tomo Designs] https://about.me/tosatomo

[3] [4] Nakomoforestry “Yakisugi” Or “Shou Sugi Ban”? Learn What You Should Call It, And Why”, [Online] available at https://nakamotoforestry.com/yakisugi-or-shou-sugi-ban-learn-what-you-should-call-it-and-why (Last accessed in July 2020) 

Picture: Terunobu Fujimori, Tea House, Barbican. Photo Ben Tynegate [Online] available at https://www.ben-tynegate.com/tea-house (Last accessed in July 2020) 

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(Urban) Food Forest

Agriculture nowadays is one of the most harmful industries in the world. It is estimated that around one quarter of the world’s emissions is coming from this sector (1). If we were able to transform today’s techniques into a mindset and strategy that rather than exploiting the environment even has a positive impact on nature, we would be able to start regenerative processes on a big scale.

“We have disconnected ourselves from life on the planet, thinking that we are the intelligent ones.
But can’t see that we are just part of an intelligent system.”
from Ernst Götsch

Food…what?

A food forest, also called an edible forest garden, is a cultivation method that is inspired by a natural forest system and inhabits a large number of plants, ranging from vegetables and berry bushes to big fruit trees. Food forests benefit from the symbiotic interplay of the different plants and thus offer a large variety of crops without the need for intensive maintenance.


Pictures from Silver Leaf Farm, Skala, Greece
© Southern Lights Project

What is a food forest?

Conventional cultivation and gardening methods are exactly the opposite of what make the forest system work. In order to make the harvest easily accessible with large machines, only one species is cultivated in separate rows in each field. All dead organic matter is cleaned up and the missing nutrients are added through fertilizer or chemicals.


Plants disposition in a monoculture orange field
© Southern Lights Project

In a natural forest, plants automatically take up the space that is most suitable for them to receive the resources they need. Doing so, they also create or improve the habitat for other plants. The result is a deeply interwoven network of very different and complementary species benefiting from each other. Organic matter deriving from the plants and the plant’s fruit plays a crucial role in this circle. Left on the ground, it stores humidity and prevents the soil from drying out while it decomposes to nutrient-rich soil. In ideal circumstances, no human measures like additional nutrition or irrigation are required to keep this system working. The idea of ​​a food forest is not to reproduce a natural forest exactly but to have it as a guiding model for creating a resilient and productive structure that is adapted to our needs. This concept shows how the basics of the forestial system can be applied to agriculture. It mimics the main principles of a forest and consists of perennial trees and plants that provide food. They are planted in such a way that the layer they occupy in their original habitat is respected, providing the ideal conditions in regards to sunlight (2). Every operation is done in order to reach an energetic positive balance in the system, so the system regulates itself.


Pictures from Silver Leaf Farm, Skala, Greece
© Southern Lights Project

What are the impacts of a food forest?

On the one hand, a food forest rewards its creators with many advantages. Similar to natural forests, human intervention can be reduced to a minimum because the system is mainly self-regulating. With a well-designed system also the harvesting process is not necessarily more time-intensive than in monoculture. On a smaller scale, where a food forest is mainly used for self-sufficiency, the variety of products supports a healthy and balanced diet. On a larger scale, this variety of products spreads the financial risk across many types of income opportunities by breaking the dependency on one crop only. In addition, the positive impact of cultivation led by food forest principles goes far beyond personal advantages. It does not just enrich the local biodiversity of plants, but by creating a natural habitat it also increases the diversity of animals, especially insects. Farming in a food forest way can kick-start and facilitate processes to save and recreate endangered ecosystems. Furthermore, as the enriched soil, the organic matter, and the plants keep humidity and bring shade, a food forest has an enormous impact on balancing the microclimate. Thinking big, the wide-spread use of food forest principles in agriculture could lead to a considerable effect on the climate.


Lizard Eggs
Pictures from Silver Leaf Farm, Skala, Greece
© Southern Lights Project

The key principles of the food forest

Disposition of plants

The design of a food forest garden requires a long-term mindset with the attitude to look patiently into the future. In fact, the natural system takes some time to strike a balance between the species, the final forms of the plants and their proper growth. Nevertheless, it is possible to get fresh fruit and quick results from the smaller plants since the beginning of the process, as those take a short time to adapt and grow. These plants also help prepare the good soil and habits for larger plants.

A food forest garden is usually made up of layers of different plants that strategically help each other throughout their life. In good conditions, the plants themselves occupy the layer to which they naturally belong. In an agroforestry system, eight layers of plants usually have to be organized:

The Emergent layer is the tree layer that overtops the other trees, forming its crown above them. This shows us that they need maximum sunlight and do not tolerate shade. Usually, trees of this layer have only a few branches on the trunk, concentrating its growth on the crown where the sunlight is. Typical for this layer are the date palm, walnut, and pear trees.

The Canopy Layer is composed of large fruit trees, nut trees and leguminous species with large crowns that are providing a good amount of shade during the dry and hot period. Plants are not in competition for reaching good soil, but only for capturing sunlight: trees are actually able to adapt their shape and to grow in harmony with other species to reach the best light spot. Examples for plants of this layer are mulberry, olive, fig or apricot trees.

The Understory Layer consists of small fruit trees and nut trees. Species of this layer prefer a good amount of sunlight but tolerate some shade. Examples for this layer are almond, orange, plum, nectarines, pomegranates, and apple.

The Shrubs Layer is composed of trees that need to be protected from direct sun. Plants of this layer are hazelnut, most berry shrubs and bananas.

The Herbs Layer is composed of short herbaceous plants, often annual.

The Groundcover Layer contains grasses, creepers, and low growing plants that protect topsoil from erosion and drought. This layer slows the speed of raindrops to lessen their impact and protects the soil’s dedicated network of roots, sand, organic matter, and hyphae (fungal roots).

The Vertical Layer is composed of climber plants that grow up trunks and branches of the bigger trees.

The Roots Layer is really important because it pulls up minerals trapped in rocks to the plants: it is composed of tubers, rhizomes and bulbs.


Typical disposition of plants in a food forest system
Infographic: Critical Concrete

Thanks to the layered diversity of species, food-forest projects provide diversification of products over monoculture cultivations: each layer is in fact offering a specific variety of food in different seasons, from fruits and berries to tubers and mushrooms. In contrast to a monoculture, that requires the fixed distance between plants, agroforestry allows us to reach a much higher density of cultivation, as plants overlap in layers.

Pruning & organic matter

As mentioned before, food forests are designed to reproduce a sustainable and working forest system in which external help and additional human activities are limited, except one: pruning. “Chop and drop” is the key activity that provides the quantity of organic matter that becomes compost to fertilize the soil, extremely important to increase root activities and feed the plants. Pruning plants is also essential to help plants to breath, grow more and reach a good amount of sunlight, encouraging chlorophyll photosynthesis. The photosynthesis is pushing the mycorrhizae, a symbiotic association between a fungus and a plant, playing an important role in plant nutrition, soil biology and soil chemistry.


Pictures from Silver Leaf Farm, Skala, Greece
© Southern Lights Project

The fertilization of the soil is constantly influenced by the production of new organic substances: the pruned branches that remained on the ground become water collectors in the rainy season and release moisture and water in dry periods. Following food forest principles is a good way to fight the soil exhaustion on a small or large scale. In fact, the use of different plants determines a symbiotic interplay in the use of the soil and is balancing nutrition resources. Every kind of soil could be defined as a “good” one: what matters is the amount of organic matter that determines the continuous fertilization of the soil. The soil is, also, acting as a sponge being a water and minerals container. Understanding of the importance of organic matter for the water management of the system can be found in the following numbers: If the amount of organic matter in the soil is increased by only 1%, an additional of 175.000 liters per hectare of water can be stored in the soil.


Comparison between an arid soil (left) and good one (right) rich of organic matter
© Southern Lights Project

Interview with Sheila from The Southern Lights Project

Food Forest had been proven a successful phenomenon on a smaller scale on a personal as well as on a commercial base. An amazing example for a prosperous sustainable business is the food forest farm The Southern Lights in Skala, Greece. Based on the organic farm of her father, Sheila introduced food forest features into her place, now cultivating more than 80 crops from which the farm and its employees can have a reliable income.

What do I need to start a food forest?

“There is no minimum size, you can start a food forest on a spot as little as one square meter. It is helpful to have or gather some knowledge of the plants you want to put, especially their layer. And finally, you need to add a lot of organic matter..”

Are there any plants that are not so suitable for food forest?

Some plants might be not so easy to work with, like for example grains or rice and you will not get too much crop from this. But it is important to know your plants and things that might work out in some other conditions might not work out for yours.“

Should I be afraid of invasive species?

“If a species is invasive in your place, that means something is missing. Actually, those so-called “invasive” or pioneer species prepare the soil with their organic matter for other plants that have higher demands on the soil.”

Can I combine a food forest with animals?

“Animals can be very helpful for your food forest. They help to decompose the organic matter as they eat it and literally poop fertilizer. But I would rather keep my place welcoming to every species that feels comfortable in my place instead of bringing animals from outside.”

How can I know if my soil is good soil?

“Your soil should look like the soil in a forest, meaning you find a lot of organic matter on the ground, even if the very surface is dry, it is humid within deeper layers. And if you can find worms, mycelium and mushrooms it is a very good sign.”

What is the difference between “permaculture” and “food forest”?

Permaculture is a design technique, which can be applied to any kind of context. Its main ideas are Earth Care, People Care and Fair Share achieved through many principles, for example, to observe and interact or integrate rather than segregate. A food forest is a good example showing this principle being applied.”

Extract from her lecture, to see the whole presentation check our YouTube Channel

How to bring these principles to a larger scale?

A common prejudice concerning the adoption of the food forest concept to a larger scale might be the assumption that due to its unregulated structure, a forest-inspired agriculture might not be workable with large machines. But projects started and inspired by Ernst Götsch, a swiss botanist working in Brazil, had shown that large scale agriculture and the principles of a forest can go astonishingly well together.

He developed the concept of syntropic farming [Gr. syn, together with, trepein, to turn.]: usually, a minimum of 30 different species will be planted, taking into consideration their suitability to the local conditions, their ecophysiological function, their lifetime as well as the farmer’s productive goals. To make it workable with bigger machines and tools, most of the plants are cultivated in rows. In contrast to traditional farming, these rows not only consist of one single species, set apart for a few meters but follow the principles of agroforestry and food forests. These means, companion plants and trees from different layers are densely combined together to facilitate the supporting networks. Mostly fast-growing support species (like eucalyptus or mulberry) are mixed with income-generating fruit-bearing plants and trees. Natural processes are accelerated through heavy pruning of the support species in order to generate vast amounts of organic matter which will decompose to nutritious soil for the fruit trees and plants.

What all of them have in common is that the harvest is a side-effect of ecosystem regeneration, and vice versa – ecosystem regeneration is a side-effect of the efforts to produce a harvest.”
from Ernst Götsch

Bringing food forest to urban contexts

In view of the many advantages of a food forest, the question arises, how this principle could be brought into the urban context. Similar to existing gardening projects, food forests can contribute to make cities greener, bring communities together and reduce food transportation. The benefit of a food forest is that also perennial species are used. This means, once the structure of the food forest is in place, less work will be required than it may be the case with the replanting of annual vegetables. “Upgrade” existing urban gardening projects is a good start to bring the principles of a food forest into the urban environment, but also introducing it to the yards and gardens of school and kindergartens has been proven to be a good starting point so far.

But the most practical way to bring a food forest into the city is by starting one of our own! Thanks to the introduction to the concept and the following workshop from Sheila Darmos from The Southern Lights, our very own little food forest is growing in our workshop’s backyard.

dog laying near a box of flowers

Samuel Ciantar taking pictures

girls painting food forest wall


Critical Concrete Food Forest, Porto, January 2020In this video she will guide you through the planting of the different layers to set up your own edible forest.

Sources

(1) [Hannah Ritchie, Max Roser] “Environmental impacts of food production”, January 2020, online available at: http://ijsetr.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/IJSETR-VOL-6-ISSUE-10-1364-1369. (Last accessed in June 2020).

[Sheila Darmos] “The Southern Lights Project”, lectures and workshop, January 2020, online available at: http://thesouthernlights.org/. (Last accessed in June 2020).

[Ernst Götsch] “Syntropic Farm Project”, online available at: https://agendagotsch.com/en/. (Last accessed in June 2020).

The post (Urban) Food Forest first appeared on Critical Concrete.
Did you miss our previous article…
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Out of the box – Vol. 3

Index

IntroductionOur researchWhy cellulose based insulation?Why lime instead of cement?Cardboard+lime insulationMaking and applyingConclusions and further steps

Introduction

In recent decades, we have seen many examples of individuals and collectives striving for a greener way of building: reviving traditional methods, favouring natural materials or including recycled elements in the process to limit the footprint. Critical Concrete embraced this aim from the beginning: in 2017, we started experimenting with cardboard based insulation, and since then we have been working with other materials (such as wool or mycelium) that can serve as valid alternatives to the more polluting conventional ones.

This article presents our journey and experience researching and developing prototypes for cardboard-lime based insulation. We will talk about why we decided to dig deep in lime and cellulose based materials, and what we learnt from our prototyping. Our research aims to deepen the recycled paper and cardboard potential as top sustainable insulation material.

Interested in using this technology in your project?

Critical Studio can help!

Learn More!

Our research

More expensive rents means more people having to live in precarious houses1. Housing poverty is one of the leading global issues2, affecting more and more people in the face of climate change. The lack of thermal comfort causes serious health issues, and is responsible for many preventable deaths especially among vulnerable and low-income communities.

housing deprivation portugal eurostat

In Portugal, where we are based:

Almost 20% of people claimed to be unable to keep their home adequately warm during winter.335.7% said their house is not comfortable during summer.4In 2018, at least 1 in 5 people lived in a dwelling with a leaking roof, damp walls, floors or foundation, or rotting window frames or floor.5

Our priority is to improve housing conditions through affordable and environmentally friendly solutions. This is the main reason our research lab has been focusing on insulation methods for many years.

We started experimenting with cardboard in 2017 due to the high performance of cellulose insulation. Our research began considering the advantages and handicaps of using corrugated cardboard as an insulation panel. So far, we produced boxes and panels for a low-tech insulation system and applied it in different summer school houses, in cases the insulation could not be applied on the exterior of the house (houses in line, no space in the street, etc.).

Last  year, we decided to move forward in our research and try to find a method to continue producing cellulose based insulation but on a larger scale, since we wanted to continue developing an insulation that would be mineral-based and would not need to be covered by a plywood board or equivalent.

Why cellulose based insulation?

Cellulose is the organic compound mainly used to produce paper and cardboard, and other wide varieties of derivative products. It works as a very competitive insulation material, “depending on manu- facturing and method of installation and is comparable with other types of insulation. It has an average thermal conductivity being of about 0.040W/mK (similar to glass wool and rock wool insulations)”.6

Paper and cardboard are extensively used and abundant resource. Reusing and recycling cardboard locally7 also reduces emissions substantially:

In 2016, 50 660 000 tons of paper and cardboard wastage were produced in the European Union. Almost one million (905 137 tons) just in Portugal.8That year, within the EU, 72% of that waste was recycled. Whilst in Portugal the percentage was 55%.9

This means that we may take advantage of a material with high insulation performance and avoid it to become disposal waste at the same time, adding a new step in its life cycle.

There are many examples of people working with cellulose based materials, as the known papercrete, which since the ‘90s has been used in informal bio-constructions around the world. Papercrete is the building material made of paper pulp and cement. The main advantage of it is “that it is lightweight but sturdy enough to bear loads10. But we didn’t want to use cement.

Why lime instead of cement?

Cement became especially relevant during the industrial revolution and it has changed our way of building from that moment. Nowadays, as an affordable and easily accessible material, cement might seem like the perfect solution to achieve efficient results quickly. However, the environmental impacts of the material are very concerning.
The most well known fact is the excessive CO2 emission of the cement industry, as it occupies 3rd place of global CO2 emissions11. But even if emissions dropped gradually with innovation efforts to create the green concrete12, we are not sure if the industry will ever be fully sustainable and carbon-neutral.

Why? Because the environmental harm does not stop with CO2 emission. We have to keep in mind:

other additives in the material’s production,excessive water usage (both during cement production and construction with concrete), centralized production, lack of perspirability of cement forces the combination with other unbreathable, synthetic materials.complexity/impossibility of recycling concrete, often reinforced, combined with lightweight materials, or in complexe composite materials,that concrete surfaces trap heat and prevent rainwater absorption,

That makes cement the ultimate enemy in sustainable architecture. It is time to opt for alternatives. To reduce our environmental impact, we put our votes to use lime: in contrast to cement, lime is biodegradable and fully-recyclable (even on bricks), and most of the time, locally produced.

A more detailed article on cement will be published in the upcoming weeks, stay tuned!

Cardboard+lime insulation

Key concepts

Cardboard pulp: Cardboard soaked in water for at least 12 hours, and then squeezed and mixed with an electric mixerCardboard+lime paste: The whole mix we used for our prototypes. Its composition changed over time as described below.Quicklime: Calcium Oxide. CaO. The outcome of heating limestone. Slaked lime: Hydrated lime. Ca(OH)2. It is the paste result of putting enough water so that the quicklime combines chemically with it.Natural hydraulic lime: Ca(OH)2+reactives. It is used to make mortar which sets through hydration.

Since this last year, we have been working on what we call cardboard+lime, based on papercrete in which we swapped cement with lime. Our goal of producing insulation allows us to use a non-structural, but less harmful material. In the first experiment, we mixed lime and cardboard14 in a small brick shape which looked very promising in terms of resistance. We were really curious about what we could get from there.

The first question that appeared was which shape should we give to these prototypes: Should we continue with bricks? Should we try with panels? In our previous research, the amount of time that producing panels takes was one of the biggest handicaps, so we decided to look for a way to remove this step from the process. We opted for making shuttering molds and applying a cardboard+lime paste in situ.

First prototypes

We have made many prototypes, have learnt different new things from each one and have tried to improve in each new attempt. The second cardboard+lime paste was made from recycled cardboard that we got from Lipor, water, sand and natural hydraulic lime (NHL) and was applied in a temporary wooden formwork of 1 m2 and 8 cm of thickness.

cardboard lime insulation timeline

Recipe and setting process

We started with a basic mix made of (proportion in volume):

Cardboard15 pulp70%Sand 20%NHL 5 1610%

That first trial gave us an overview about the outcome we wanted to have and what was missing. In the following prototypes, we added borax for added resistance to fungi and mould. We also increased the proportion of hydraulic lime, reducing the sand; this made the mix easier to mix and apply. We got a better consistency in the cardboard+lime paste and we could notice it during the curing: the prototype was more compact and homogeneous.

Over time, we saw a small shrinkage up to 2% of their sizes and the terrible appearance of mould on the second and third prototypes. The cardboard+lime paste shrinks because of the amount of cardboard pulp –it tends to shrink when it loses its water– in the final mix; and the mould appears because of the slow setting process.

How did we try to solve this?

Adding slaked lime in order to kill any kind of life that wanted to appear.Adding plaster to accelerate the curing process.Reducing the percentage of cardboard pulp.

Thus, our final cardboard+lime recipe got its shape (proportion in volume):

Cardboard pulp62%Sand15.5%NHL 515.5%Slaked lime2.3%Plaster2.3%Borax2.3%

Shuttering and structure

In the beginning, the shuttering was thought of as a temporary structure –such as those we can see for making concrete– compound of vertical wooden pillars and boards. After the first prototype, we realised this was not feasible if we wanted the cardboard+lime to be a solid and permanent insulation attached to the wall.

In order to achieve a safe insulation that could last for years in place, we designed an internal structure secured to the vertical one and the wall in such a way that only the boards were removable. At the end, we decided to also add interior beams to completely ensure the cardboard+lime insulation.

Making and applying cardboard+lime

As the recipe and the structure evolved over time, so did the production process.. With the addition of new structural elements, such as the inner string and beams, the procedure became more complex.

We had to follow a step by step process in which the use of one tool or another could save us a lot of time, as well as the outcome could change completely if it was not followed properly. Furthermore, the setting process could be slashed depending on the context: are we working during Summer? Are we working in a humid zone? Do we have enough ventilation? And with it, the properties of the insulation.

How to make the cardboard+lime insulation
Disclaimer: Calculation for 1 m2 insulation. First, measure the whole wall you want to insulate and divide it in the best way it can fit. Also, if you are making the insulation in a stone/concrete wall, mark and make all the holes you will need.

Cardboard+lime paste – with the proportion referred before

For making the cardboard+lime paste we need to first prepare the cardboard pulp and the slaked lime (you can buy ready-made lime putty, but we used to make it ourselves).

Slaked lime

This is a dangerous chemical reaction, so we advise to use goggles, mask and gloves.


In a large metal container –nothing plastic though, as the heat generated by the reaction will melt it–, add one part quicklime to three parts water.Always add quicklime to water, and never water to quicklime, as it will spit, and can be very dangerous.The reaction should start and it can achieve temperatures over 100ºC.Wait until cooled down. Usually we prepared the mix at least one day in advance.

Cardboard pulp

For 1 m2 of cardboard+lime insulation, 6 cm thicker, you will need 65 l of cardboard pulp.


Tear/shred the cardboard into 4-5 cm pieces and drop them into a bucket until almost full.Pour enough water into the bucket to soak the cardboard pieces.Let the paper soak for at least 12h (and no more than 48).Attach the mixer to the drill and move it around in the cardboard to shred it to a pulp.Squeeze and reserve.

After having these two ingredients ready, we can start the mix!

In a concrete mixer, put half of the cardboard pulp, the hydraulic lime, the sand, plaster, borax and the slaked lime.Start the machine and add the rest of the cardboard pulp little by little to get a better mix.If you see the mix becoming small balls, stop and tear them apart. Mix again until having an homogenous mix.

Applying the cardboard+lime paste

For the shuttering we use 6×6 cm wooden bars and 100×33 cm plywood boards.

cardboard lime shuttering structure
Make the frame where the shuttering will be placed. Mark where the structure is going to be placed. Place a bar horizontally on the floor (a), attach it to the wall with screws. Place two bars vertically (b) with 1 m separation between them. Measure from the axis of each bar. Attach them to the wall with screws.Put four screws (c) drawing a ‘z’, two of them on the vertical bars with ~20 cm distance and the other two on the wall at the same high. Tie a string (d) ]to the first screw – the one closer to the horizontal beam on the floor–.Stretch the string to the next screw –the one at the same high that the one before–. Don’t tie the string because we will need to tight it later.


Screw the wooden board to the pillars.Start pouring the cardboard+lime paste until it covers the string. Press the paste.Tight the string.Pour more cardboard+lime paste.Stretch the string to the third screw, in diagonal.Pour more paste. Press it. – The more you press, the better.Tight the string, stretch it to the last screw on the pillar. Put a beam with nails (e) small beam]. Press.Repeat from point 2.

Setting process

Remove the boards after 3 days. There is no risk of downfall, but the cardboard+lime paste is still wet so be careful not to beat it. The setting process can last for many weeks until the insulation is completely dry, but with the proper conditions it should be around 3 weeks. During these three weeks the insulated room must be well ventilated – cross ventilation is always the best- to avoid the condensation and with it, the slowed down of the curing process.

Conclusions and further steps

After almost one year of researching and observing the behaviour of the different prototypes, it seems fair to say that cardboard+lime, with the recipe shown above, is indeed proven to be a promising insulation material.

But we ended on a process that is a bit crazy. We realized that applying cardboard+lime as we did needs specific conditions and a meticulous procedure. So, yes, for experienced building people cardboard+lime in this shape may work as an eco-friendly low-tech material. Nevertheless, our aim is to give to our society a environmentally friendly insulation material accessible for all.

How to store food outside of the fridge

Thus, now that we know that the material works, we are working to improve its shape. In our last prototypes, we decided to re-think the brick shape and made two blocks of 36x23x7.5 cm and one of 40.5x.17.5×3 cm. The outcome looks auspicious: easier process of making, less time to dry and highly resistance after the curing process.

The next steps include coming back to the panels with a hydraulic press that may allow a faster curing process and more consistent and resistant material. We keep working in this direction to maximize the potential of this insulation.

Notes and references

1 Marques Costa, R. (2019) Crise na habitação empurra mais pessoas para casas sem condições mínimas. Publico (PT) – https://www.publico.pt/2019/05/25/sociedade/noticia/ha-viva-condicoes-precarias-sao-realidades-escondidas-1873884

2 Habitat for Humanity (year) 7 things you should know about poverty and housing. https://www.habitat.org/stories/7-things-you-should-know-about-poverty-and-housing

3 Eurostat (2019), Inability to keep home adequately warm – EU-SILC survey. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/ilc_mdes01

4 Eurostat (2012), Share of population living in a dwelling not comfortably cool during summer time. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/ilc_hcmp03

5 Eurostat (2018), Total population living in a dwelling with a leaking roof, damp walls, floors or foundation, or rot in window frames or floor – EU-SILC survey. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/ilc_mdho01

6 C.-M. Popescu, D. Jones (2017) Cellulose, pulp and paper. Jones, D. Brischke, C. (Eds.) Performance of Bio-based Building Materials. [pp.75] https://doi.org/10.1016/C2015-0-04364-7

7 China Impacts Price of Recyclable Cardboard. https://www.phswastekit.co.uk/blog/posts/10-07-2019/-china-impacts-price-of-recyclable-cardboard

8 Eurostat (2016), Generation of waste by waste category, hazardousness and NACE Rev.. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/env_wasgen

9 Eurostat (2016), Treatment of waste by waste category, hazardousness and waste management operations. https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/web/products-datasets/-/env_wastrt

10 Nubie, S. (2019) How to make papercrete: the ultimate building material for off grid living. Homestead Survival Site. https://homesteadsurvivalsite.com/how-to-make-papercrete/

11 Andrew, R (2019), Global CO2 emissions from cement production, 1928-2018, Center for International Climate Research. https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-11-1675-2019

12 IEA (2019), Tracking Industry, IEA, Paris. https://www.iea.org/reports/tracking-industry/cement

13 Recycled cardboard provided by Lipor – local trash collector company.

14 Over time, we realised that cardboard sweats the ink printed on it, so then we tried to avoid printed parts as much as possible.

15 Natural Hydraulic Lime NHL 5 NP EN 459-1.

The post Out of the box – Vol. 3 first appeared on Critical Concrete.

Natural Wood Protection

Interested in learning more about this topic and more social and sustainable ways of doing architecture? Apply now for our Postgraduate!

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DISCLAIMER

This article explains how to protect wood from pests, water and fire showing different environmental-friendly techniques

!UPDATE! !UPDATE! !UPDATE! !UPDATE! !UPDATE! !UPDATE! !UPDATE! !UPDATE!

DE BLOWA

UseProtectionLimitationInterior & exterior wood,
termites-infested woodKilling and repelling termites and other pestsIf a change in colour is not appriciated

DE BLOWA is a mixture of proven anti-termite and anti-pest ingredients that we at Critical Concrete used to protect almost all of the wood we use. So far, we haven’t done any long-term research into its effectiveness, but we’re optimistic that it’s a very useful combination because all of the ingredients are individually useful treatments for pests. The name is an abbreviation for the materials it contains:

DEDiatomaceous Earth100 gB
Borax100 gLLinseed Oil3 kgOOrange Oil100 gWAWood Ashes100 g

It is important to shake the mixture well before application, as the ingredients are not dissolving and settling on the bottom of the container. Then the mixture can be easily applied with a brush (or for a larger surface with a paint roller). Users should be aware that DE BLOWA gives the wood a darker shine. If a fine result is required, the excess should be removed a few minutes after brushing with a cloth.

ProTip: If the wood is already infested, it is recommended to briefly pull the wood through fire from all sides to kill the termites. Another option is to inject orange oil into the visible termite tunnels with a syringe. Read more about the single ingredients and techniques in the following article!

Interested in using this technology in your project?

Critical Studio can help!

Learn More!

Introduction

Wood is a versatile and renewable material with a positive carbon footprint, which proves to be a significant construction material in sustainable architecture. Because of its strong and lightweight characteristics and the possibility to be processed and worked easily, it is a good replacement for other, less ecological materials. Additionally, wood is a relatively cheap material and gives any construction a cozy and natural atmosphere.

All these advantages make wood one of our most used materials within our projects. For example, instead of concrete or metal, the heavy load of our green roof is carried by strong wooden laminated beams of 12x48cm. Also, reclaimed wooden windows are giving a unique touch to the backyard facade of our workshop.


Beams carrying the green roof

The facade in process

Despite the mentioned advantages, wood as a building material still faces some persistent prejudices, which can lead people to refrain from using wood in their constructions. Many bacteria, fungi and insects find wood appetizing, and humidity and moisture can lead to its early decay. Besides this, a misconception associates wood with being very flammable and thus, a risky building material (when in fact wood retains its strength longer and at much higher temperatures than steel [1]). So, if wood is prepared and treated in an appropriate way, it can be turned into a long-lasting, water- and bacteria-proof as well as fire resistant building material. Many still-standing examples prove that wooden structures can last over centuries and, taking their time of origin into account, that wood can be protected without any artificial products.

Faroe islands
House on the Faroe Islands

When it comes to protecting wood from the mentioned dangers, one can already find a lot of articles on the internet. In this article we avoid the commonly used methods which often involve ingredients harmful to the environment and instead focus on the natural and non-toxic techniques. Besides, we want to promote and facilitate the usage of reclaimed wood. The basics of how to prepare reclaimed wood for the prevention technique can be found at the end of the article.

Based on our experience and research, this article aims to give guidance regarding sustainable and environmentally-friendly techniques to protect wood against pests, humidity and fire. What techniques fit best for your projects can be traced in the decision tree below.

Protection Techniques

Exterior and interior wood are exposed to very different conditions. Whereas both need to stand fire and pest, the wood outside is prone to much more risks as it may have to withstand heavy rain, persistent humidity or high-levels of sunlight radiation. In our projects we usually use applying borax and linseed oil for interior wood and the Japanese technique of charring wood (shou sugi ban) for exterior wood. Depending on the conditions of the property and on the available resources, a combination of techniques may be suitable.

CHARRING WOOD

UseProtectionLimitationExterior and interior wood;
preferably cedar, pine, marble, hemlock or oakagainst humidity
against pests and fungi
enhancing fire-resistance
sunlight-protectionnot suitable for glued and easily cracking wood

Charring Wood is a Japanese technique which originated in the 18th century, known as Shou Sugi Ban. The surface of the wood is burned until carbonation of the surface. The finished result is called Yakisugi. We already published an article about the technique’s history and contemporary use in architecture today, check here.

Counter-intuitively, charring wood has several astonishing advantages without involving any chemicals. The idea is to burn the surface of the wood without combusting the whole piece. Besides giving the material an interesting and unique look, the process lead to a triple protection:

fire protection – this might seem counter-intuitive, but the burning of the surface starts a carbonation of the material and thus lower the thermal conductivity. The treated material will take more time to burn in case of a fire than the regular wood.
termite and mold protection – burning wood destroys the nutritional value to insects and fungi, that regular wood gives to these species. Thus it helps to prevent the propagation of pests.
water protection – the enhanced carbonation gives the charred layer a waterproof resistance, as water slips on burned wood like over an oily surface.

TRADITIONAL STYLE
(suitable for a certain amount of similar boards)

Traditionally the technique is used with Japanese cedar. Cedar is usually the easiest species to burn because of its natural chemical properties and wide grain patterns, making it a more porous wood. In the last few years, the technique has been popularized in western countries and extended to other species of wood like pine, hemlock, maple, or oak. We used pine and beech, but we experienced that these species tend to show cracks when charring. Before burning other species of wood than the ones mentioned above, it is advised to research on previous experiences or make small prototypes. It needs to be mentioned, that once the piece gets charred, it may contract slightly and change its shape as it loses humidity. If working with very precise measurements, this needs to be kept in mind!

Following, the article is highlighting different approaches to do the burning process. For both it is recommended to choose a well-ventilated place, preferably outside, but to avoid breezes. Safety measures should include a nearby fire extinguisher, a bucket of water as well as fire-resistant gloves. Wearing flammable clothes like polyester, sawdust or any flammable items within the close surrounding must be absolutely avoided.

Traditionally in Japan, shou sugi ban is performed by bonding three planks of wood to form a long triangle and starting a fire in the resulting tube. This technique is suitable to char a bigger amount of similar boards (e.g. for cladding). The easiest way to create this triangle is to place the three boards next to each other on the ground with facing the sides to be charred upside and then folding the two outside boards upwards. The triangle can be easily fixed with wire.

One possibility is to put the triangle on a non flammable floor and start the fire at the opening at one side of the triangle. In the best case, the fire spreads over within the whole tube and it will take a few minutes to char the surfaces of the wood. Once the surface is sufficiently burned, the planks are separated and thrown to the ground to stop the burning [2]. The other possibility is to start the fire while the triangle is standing up. Therefore a stable and fire-resistant base (e.g using bricks) is advisable, best next to an also fire-resistant wall. Besides, a fire-resisting spot where the hot and probably still burning triangles can be placed later, needs to be prepared. The wooden triangle can be placed in a slight angle to the wall and the fire can be started inside the lower opening of the triangle. It is also possible to put a grill on the fire-resistant base and start a fire in there, keeping the fire slightly smaller than the hole of the triangle. That way the triangles can be just put on top of the fire and the process will be started. Once the bottom part of the tube catches fire, the fire will make its way to the top. After some minutes fire shoots will be visible on the top and after waiting another minute the triangle can be removed with fire tongs. Once the wood is placed on the prepared spot, the fire can be hosed off with water [3]. 

As it is can be an unhandy task to fix and loosen the triangles, we are working on a technique to facilitate the process. We are building a burning station, where you can easily put wooden boards and start a fire underneath. When the station will be refined, we will share the methodology and tools in another short article and in a YouTube-Video!

ADAPTED STYLE WITH A HANDHELD BLOW TORCH
(suitable for every form)

If the wood does not come in similar boards or if you do not feel comfortable with the traditional method, the wood can also be charred using a handheld propane blowtorch. For many tasks we worked with this method, for example burning the windows for the facade. Precautions for this method include the mentioned safety measures and the preparation of a fire-resistant spot to place the wood during and after the process.

Starting the process, the torch needs to be lit and the gas opened to the full, so the fire appears more in a bluish colour, meaning it is more concentrated and strong. A good distance between torch and wood lays between 10-15 cm, held in a relatively straight angle. (The distance depends on the torch, but it should be around the right distance when the top of the touching blue fire separates into orange flames).


Burning process with a handheld blow torch

It is recommended to move the torch slowly over the surfaces. In the first seconds, the grains will be highlighted in a darker colour and after the whole surface will turn darker. To get the full protection characteristics, the surfaces should turn completely black and the very first layer should start to get porous. After finishing all the surfaces, the wood needs to cool down.


The burning process

Charred board

FINAL FINISHING FOR CHARRED WOOD
(applicable for traditional and hand torch technique)

After charring the wood, one can clean it softly using a standard wire brush to remove the most superficial char and create a non porous surface, using the brush in the direction of the wood grain. This task needs some precaution. If the wood is brushed too much, its pores will be opened up again and thus the water protection layer might be lost. It is enough if the excess of the burn is removed and the texture of the drains become slightly visible. After the surface can be cleaned with a cloth or water or by using an air compressor. As final coating applying linseed oil is recommended (see the advantages of linseed oil more up in the article). 

CRITICAL CONCRETE CHARRING STATION
(Shou Sugi Ban without gas)

At Critical Concrete, we wanted to build up a tool with commonly available materials which enables us on the one side to charr wood of different sizes and forms effectively, but on the other hand, keep the process at very little risk and environmentally-friendly. Check out our Video about our very own Shou Sugi Ban Charring Station!

BORAX

UseProtectionLimitationInterior woodagainst pests and fungi
against humiditynot suitable for exterior wood (only combined with another technique or with a weather-proof resistant wood spieces)
Borax crystals
Borax Crystals

Borax is composed of naturally occurring minerals that usually comes as a white powder, consisting of soft and colorless crystals that will dissolve in water. The structure of the boron, salt and oxygen molecules inhibit the metabolic processes of many organisms and therefore borax disinfects and kills unwanted pests and insects [4].

Be aware, that even if borax is a completely natural product, it doesn’t mean it is completely safe to manipulate. For sensitive people, contact with borax may lead to skin or eye irritation [5]. Even though borax enhances the woods protection against humidity, borate protections are only suitable for indoor wood that is protected from weather.

To prepare the solution, the mineral needs to be dissolved with water. We experimented on different percentages and concluded that the mix of 10% of Borax and accordingly 90% of water seems to be the most suitable division. When doing the mix, the water should have a temperature of around 40 degrees, so the mineral dissolves faster and in a higher quantity into the water.

Before applying the borax-mix, the wood needs to be cleaned with a wet but tightly squeezed fabric (to prevent the wood from absorbing more water) to remove dust and dirt. Just before putting the borax-water mixture, it has to be stirred again, because the solution will start settling after some time. To ensure not to apply too much water to the wood and to avoid running noses, it is recommended to wipe off any excess liquid of the paintbrush. To guarantee the effect of the borax minerals, a preferably homogeneous coverage is important. The borax must be fixed with a layer of oil, stain, lacquer or wax. (Look at the next step where we explain why and how you should use linseed).

We have to admit that using Borax as a termite repellent is the best solution we found so far, but that from a sustainable point of view it is far from perfect. The biggest and commercially most important sources of Borax are found in California and Turkey; minor resources can be found in Romania, Bolivia, Chile and Tibet. For us in Portugal that means on the one hand long transportation ways and its unsustainable consequences. But on the other hand and probably much worse the exploration of the minerals from deep layers in the earth can cause immense and devastating damage to nature and landscape. For this reason we are investigating alternatives such as wood ash mixes.

ORANGE OIL

UseProtectionLimitationInterior & exterior wood,
termites-infested woodagainst dry wood termites

Besides borax, orange oil has to be proven environmentally friendly repellent. Deriving from the skin of an orange peel it saturates the wood and gives it a shiny appearance. Thus the efficiency of orange oil against termites is debated. Some sources declare that it kills dry wood termites, but it fails to fight subterranean termites [6]. We applied little amounts of orange oil several times in a row to localized termite infections with a serine and in our case orange oil proved to be very effective. Orange oil is expensive (4 liters for around 100 €) but you never need a big quantity. For small surfaces and already infested areas it is a proper substitute for borax.

In our project we also use 5% mix of orange oil with linseed oil to protect our interior wood from future infestation. But bear in mind that if the borax will remain on your wood permanently, the orange oil would probably slowly be absorbed and loose effect with time. To our understanding it works better as a treatment than as a preventive measure.

LINSEED OIL

UseProtectionLimitationInterior & exterior Woodagainst humidity
sunlight-protection

Linseed oil exhibits many advantages and thanks to its non-toxicity and its environmentally-friendly characteristics is coming back into force lately. It can be used inside and outdoors and act as a protection for water and sunlight [7].

It penetrates deep into the wood, so it does not only saturate the surface but the whole piece of wood. It is also suitable to lock the layer of borax. It lends a golden hue to the wood which will turn to amber over time. The colour is a question of taste and due to its long drying time linseed oil may not be everyone’s favorite. But in fact, it is possible to reduce drying time by using double boiled or polymerized linseed oil [8].

Comparing wood
Comparison between a beam with and a beam without linseed oil

To apply linseed oil is very easy, a surplus of oil needs to be wiped off from the brush before applying it to the whole wooden surface and after it needs two to three days to be completely absorbed by the wood.

Linseed oil has the advantage that it penetrates relatively deeply into the wood. But it is also possible to replace all the air contained in the wood with linseed oil. The technique uses first a vacuum to cause the air in the wood to be drawn out, followed by pressuring warmed up linseed oil into the wood structure. Once the oil has hardened, the wood cells should be prevented from absorbing any moisture. For now, this technique is common among instrument makers; at Critical Concrete we did not have the chance to experiment with it so far, but we will do in a close future (stay tuned for upcoming articles).

WOOD VACUUM STABILIZATION

Usually, this technique is done by using a sealable container and a vacuum-pump. The container is filled up with linseed oil, some sources recommend a 2:1-mixture of linseed oil and turpentin. One or more wooden pieces are put into the oil, the container is sealed and and the vacuum pump is started, going to a maximum pressure of 90 kPA (for less fragile parts the optimal maximum vacuum pressure needs to be evaluated). The second phase involves compressing the air up to 75 psi and isolating the container. It is recommended to heat the oil to a temperature around 35 degrees to prevent the oil from “boiling”. The whole thing should be left like this for about a day. After, the heating can be turned down and before starting the depression the oil should cool down for a few hours. When everything has cooled down, the pieces can be taken out of the oil. It is necessary to keep the wooden pieces in a cold environment and give them a daily wipe for the following days, as the oil may continue to sweat and thus leaving ugly patches which will later on be hard to remove. After this activity has terminated, the pieces can be removed to a warmer place to speed up the drying process (which can also involve many days). It is still questioned whether this technique is suitable for bigger pieces of wood, as we could only find examples for smaller pieces (as seen in a construction context). It has to be evaluated whether the oil can penetrate completely into big pieces of wood and if yes, if it can also dry completely. Besides making the wood waterproof, the vacuum pressure treatment adds to weight, stability and resilience of the wood [9].

LIME AND WOODEN ASHES

UseProtectionLimitationContact between ground and woodagainst subterranean termitesnot applicable on wood

Both lime and wooden ashes are alkaline, and termites do not prefer alkaline environments. This mixture was already used in ancient China, where it was usually spread on the soil to kill subterranean termites, which can also be helpful to avoid wooden construction to get in contact with termites via the soil [10]. Besides, we found some suggestions to put ashes directly in holes that derive from termites. Also a study from Uganda shows that wooden ashes (sometimes mixed with pepper or cow urine) applied to the trees and soils kept the termites away [11]. For now it seems like it is not directly applicable to wooden surfaces, because the wood’s ph is usually acidic and these of ashes and lime are alkaline. Whenever acidic and alkaline components come into contact and water is present a chemical reaction will occur. It might have been possible to predict the reaction if bringing together only a few inorganic compounds, but wood consists of a multitude of organic compounds which differ even from species to species [12]. Thus, it might be an interesting field to experiment in the future.

DDITIONAL OPTIONS SUPPORTING TERMITE-FREE WOODEN CONSTRUCTIONS

Termite-eating Worms and Fungus. There is also the possibility to attack subterranean termites (which might flow over to wooden constructions) while placing a special species of microscopic worms into the soil next to the construction – Nematodes. They come as parasitic roundworms and they will quickly find and enter the host insect’s body and start eating it from the inside. Doing so, they are releasing gut and the termite will suffer from blood poisoning and quickly die. Nematodes will go on to its next victim till they cannot find any host insect anymore and then die. Similar working species of fungus exist, too [13]. If these worms may have any potential to be put directly into a wooden construction or if they will act as a pest themselves (as for example Bursaphelenchus xylophilus does to pine trees)needs further examination.

Diatomaceous Earth. Consisting of small decayed organisms, which have dried out and become razor sharp cut the sensitive, outer shell membranes of small insects. After the insect’s shell is sliced, the extremely dry particles of the diatomaceous earth actively dehydrate and thus kill the insect in a short time [14]. Diatomaceous Earth is commonly used to kill existing pests by spraying the powder to the infested areas. If and how it is applicable as a preventive protection to be applied to the wood needs to be examined.

Sunlight. Termites might die when they are exposed to sun radiation and heat. So, furniture or pieces of wood which are mobile and where indicators of termite infestation can be indicated, might be without termites after they were put for some time into direct sun [15].

Termite traps. The favorite dish of a termite is cellulose, that is why they are craving for wood and everything which is somehow made out of wood. Cardboard boxes provide an ample amount of cellulose. If the infestation of termites is apprehend, setting out a wettendend cardboard box can lure them out of their hiding. This way will probably not lead to the total extinction of the termites in one place and it needs repetition from time to time, but every termite removed is a good termite [16].

Protective measurements deriving from the construction details

The protection of wood can be enhanced the way it is – installed in the construction. On vertical boards the water can flow more easily and thus will penetrate less into the structure. Another strategy can be to work with a ventilated wood and batten structure, securing a constant ventilation on the exposed wood. This is traditionally used in barns and today adapted to many contemporary wooden construction. If possible, exposed joints, screws and nails should be avoided, reduce possible enter spots for humidity and to obviate rusty spots.

Conclusion

Due to its environmentally-friendly characteristics and its easy-to-work with features, wood is one of the most important materials in our projects. To protect this precious material and to enlarge its usable life-circle, we discovered the mentioned techniques as the most suitable for us. One the one hand, those methods enable the protection of wood with commonly used tools or with very little acquisitions. On the other hand, they not just renounce spreading toxic material into the environment, they also prove that wood can be a durable construction material, which can replace other, less sustainable materials. Nonetheless, those techniques are not exclusive when it comes to sustainable and ecological wood protection techniques, but using these methods set incentive for a more sustainable architecture.

Building a green roof
Building the green roof structure

BONUS-TRACK

Depending on if and how the wood was used before, the wood may need to be prepared before applying the protection techniques. This possibly includes cleaning and smoothing the wood. 

Notice: Before starting to work with wood, it is important to check the humidity of the wood (max. 20% – it is possible to use hygrometer or by comparing the weight of some size and species of wood). If the wood is too wet, it is not possible to work with it, otherwise all the effort will be in vain, you’ll damage your tools, and the wood is probably highly damaged already.

CLEANING THE WOOD

When using leftover wood, it most probably shows traces of its former life, including left-over nails, screws and other applications as well as old (and probably chipped and multilayered) paint. In case this “vintage style” is wanted, it is important to weigh the aspired look against to what extent the wood needs to be protected. Removing the leftover screws, nails and other applications will facilitate the following steps. To get rid of the paint, we suggest two tools: the classical scraper or a piece of broken glass.

When using the scraper, it is crucial not to use it in a steep angle, even if this may work more efficiently. Instead using it in a shallow angle and trying to get the scraper under the paint to protect the underlying wood from scratches.

Scraping paint
Scraping paint by hand
Workbench with hands
Measuring

A suitable piece of broken glass for this task has a curved side. For some kind of paint, thinner glass may be more efficient, but the thinner the glass is the more likely it is to break. Also it may be more handy when the piece of glass is a bit bigger (around 10-20cm), but depending on its thickness it is also more likely to break.

It may appear that it is easier to do this task without gloves, as it brings more precision in your hands. Before taking off the gloves, changing to more tight-fit gloves can probably solve this issue. 

Changing between scraper and different pieces of broken glass, in some areas one or the other may work better. Independently of the chosen tool, the scraping off of old paint can be either an easy task if the paint happens to be brittle and already chipping, or in the worst case it can take hours.

SMOOTHENING THE WOOD

After removing the nails the wood probably looks dirty, but also new wood may also have a layer of dirt, bark or mold covering its surface. It is important to clean the surface well to make the wood receptive to the following wood-protection treatment, for example to ensure a better infiltration of pest-protection and oil. An additional advantage of the removing of the first layers is the beautified appearance of the new wood surface.

The removal of the top layers and smoothing of the surface is achieved by sanding or planing. Of course there is the possibility to sand by hand, but unless it is not a very small wooden surface that you need to be protected, it may be really better work with a sanding machine. 

While using the sanding-machine, it is crucial to put the sanding patch or belt as flat as possible on the wooden surface (of course as long as this is manageable with the kind of surface you have). It may appear that it works faster and more efficiently when the sanding paper is touching the wood at an angle. But on the one hand it ruins the result as the surface will not turn out straight and bumps can be easily created. On the other hand, it also ruins the sanding pad at the edges.

Sanding
Sanding

Little corners, that cannot be reached with the sanding machine – or while using the machine could come close to very weak parts – need to be sanded by hand, or a multi-tool if you have one! The worn out patches of the sanding machine probably can be used for the parts which need to be sanded by hand.  

Now the wood is ready for protection!

Sources

[1] NZ WOOD “Which building material performs better in a fire – wood or steel?”, [Online] available at http://www.nzwood.co.nz/faqs/which-building-material-performs-better-in-a-fire-wood-or-steel/ (Last accessed in January 2020)

[2] Shou Sugi Ban “Shou Sugi Ban 101”, [Online] available at http://shousugiban.com/shou-sugi-ban-101/ (Last accessed in January 2020)

[3] Instructables “Backyard Shou Sugi Ban”, [Online] available at https://www.instructables.com/id/Backyard-Shou-Sugi-Ban/ (Last accessed in January 2020)

[4] ThoughtCo “The Chemistry of How Borax Works as a Cleaner (Sodium Borate)”, [Online] available at https://www.thoughtco.com/how-does-borax-clean-607877 (Last accessed in January 2020)

[5] Healtline “Is Borax toxic?”, [Online] available at https://www.healthline.com/health/is-borax-safe#safety (Last accessed in January 2020)

[6] Networx “Does Orange Oil Work for Termites?”, [Online] available at www.networx.com › article › does-orange-oil-work-for-termites (Last accessed in January 2020)

[7] The Craftsmen’s Blog “How To: Use Boiled Linseed Oil (Safely)”, [Online] available at https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-use-boiled-linseed-oil-safely/ (Last accessed in January 2020)

[8] ARDEC “Linseed oil, a natural solution for Wood Finishing”, [Online] available at https://ardec.ca/en/blog/22/linseed-oil-a-natural-solution-for-wood-finishing (Last accessed in January 2020)

[9] Good Bagpipes “Vacuum and pressure oil treatment of wood”, [Online] available at https://www.goodbagpipes.com/index.php/about-me/writings/pipe-making/131-vacuum-and-pressure-oil-treatment-of-wood (Last accessed in February 2020)

[10] Abdalla House “Termite deterrents”, [Online] available at https://www.abdallahhouse.com/2009/11/termite-deterrents.html (Last accessed in January 2020)

[11]P. Kiwuso, G. Maiteki and J. Okorio “Indigenous methods of controlling termites in agroforestry in Uganda”, 2015, Kampala, Uganda

[12] Passivhaus “LA PRESERVATION DES BOIS DANS LA CONSTRUCTION” [Online] available at https://passivhaus.fr/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/traitementsalternatifsdesboisdeconstruction-1.pdf (Last accessed in January 2020)

[13] Varsity termite and pest control “All-Natural Ways of Eliminating Termites” [Online] available at https://varsitytermiteandpestcontrol.com/natural-ways-eliminating-termites/

[14] Citypests “Diatomaceous Earth for Termites”, [Online] available at https://citypests.com/diatomaceous-earth-for-termites/

[15] Pesthow “How to get rid of termites”, [Online] available at https://www.pesthow.com/how-to-get-rid-of-termites/

[16] Pesthow “How to get rid of termites”, [Online] available at https://www.pesthow.com/how-to-get-rid-of-termites/

[image by Vincent van Zeijst], [Online] available at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Faroe_Islands,Streymoy,_Kirkjub%C3%B8ur(1).jpg (Last accessed in January 2020)

The post Natural Wood Protection first appeared on Critical Concrete.
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Tyre Foundations

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DISCLAIMER

[This article shows the development of the first step of a new prototype experimented in Critical Concrete. During the conception of the green roof, the structure was checked by a civil engineer who also advised us in the development of our wildest prototypes.]

Check out the video to see how we experimented with scrap tyres and compressed earth&gravel for a low-impact and concrete free building! 
:ok_hand:

Introduction 

In the progress of developing our green roof prototype we have been confronted with foundations in different ways. Seeking for alternatives it turned out that the old granite walls of the building, once reinforced by wooden beams, would be strong enough to carry the load of the new roof. You can read all about the refurbishment and reinforcing of the walls for the roof in our previous articles (walls-refurbishment 1.0, walls-refurbishment 1.1, how to build a stone wall).

The size of the new roof however, stretches out further than the fully loadable walls. For that reason, part of the roof needs a different kind of foundation.

Section of Tyre foundation
Section of the green roof highlighting the parts supported by tyre foundations

Our Research

Throughout our research for alternatives to concrete, we stumbled over the tyre foundation. For us, it was very interesting since it is a low-tech solution which is composed only of scrap tyres filled with compressed gravel. Both components are easily accessible almost everywhere in the world.

Indeed, when tyres worn out, they become a waste which is not easy to handle. Recently, more processes that aim at recycling have been developed from which rubber, steel and textile fibers are obtained. Another solution is to reuse the tyres directly in a different context, thus avoiding more energy consumption for the transformation of the product.

Pile if trashed tyres
Pile of trashed tyres
Re-using the tyre
Worn out tyre reused in a new contextScrap tyres have already been tested in various cases in the construction field, for example to make the roadbed of the streets and referred to as mechanical concrete, a method widely used in the USA. One of the most known cases is the Earthship Biotecture concept autonomous houses developed by architect Michael Reynolds, in which earth-rammed automobile tyres are used for building the main retaining wall of the house. This technique is presented as the most appropriate method for its strength, economy and low need of technical skills.

Truck covering tyres with rubble

Person standing on tyre wall
Pictures by mechanicalconcrete.com (pictures on the left) and by earthship_biotecture (licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) (picture on the right)

The flexibility of the tyre can also offer durable protection in a seismic area. These foundations can indeed reduce the effect of seismic vibrations on the building on top of them and it can be used in every stable soil, even clay soil (for more information click here). Yet we couldn’t find any applications that fits exactly our needs. Many cases used the tyres to build walls, or wall-like foundations where the structure was resting without anchoring. Other examples used conventional concrete to fix some kind of anchoring sockets. As far as we know, our case, a structure with several punctual load bearing columns, has not been well documented yet.

Interested in using this technology in your project?

Critical Studio can help!

Learn More!

Our Approach

In our particular case, we designed two single stepped footings for two columns of the green roof.

Section and plan of tyre foundation
Section and plan of the two single stepped footings for two columns of the green roof

One part of the green roof structure lies on a massive, structurally stable granite wall built in the 19th century, and the other part will lay on the new foundation. Since it is a prototype and it is not well known how the foundations will react to the heavy load, we decided to make the new part (15m2) independent of the rest of the roof previously built (120m2). This assembly required us to insert an expansion joint which allows movement due to ground settlement or other variations, expansion or contraction of building materials. It will also assist the observation of potential changes and reduce the risk of damaging the whole roof in the worst case scenario. Indeed, this technique has been used in England for at least 15 years. Research and experiments of the Holy Trinity Church Tulse Hill showed that they tyre stacks will hold a minimum of 1000 kN/m2 of load with no detected movement on the expansion but a compressive variation of only 3mm (to watch the video click here). The IUT of Grenoble made tests of loading tyre foundations from the Flexagone office: They applied the weight of pressure of 72 tons on the foundation, without any damage or detectable movement (for more information click here).

Additionally we consulted several engineers to check our structural conceptions. As we explained in former articles, the heavy loads on the roof – composed of the drainage layer, earth and plants – impacts the renovation process by its load of 600 kg/m2– 5.88kN/m2, including the dynamic load. Based on this information and our needs, we developed the concept of single stepped footings for columns. We calculated that each pillar should carry about 2400kg approximately. The foundation includes a socket which joins it with the wooden column.

Side view of foundation
Section of the Tyre Foundation

This connection is especially important while setting up the tyre and aligning the structure. Once the roof is finished, its own weight will hold its place. Below the foundation is a metal plate. On one hand, it distributes the forces on the soil and on the other hand it connects the foundation to the holding socket of the column. On top of the metal plate lay the tyres. We chose two tyres to make the foundation strong enough for the load. One truck tyre (95cm ø) and a smaller car tyre (65cm ø). The holding socket for the column is layed on the upper tyre and connected to the foundation through threaded rods which are welded to the base plate. The socket itself also holds the column in the right position.

Our workexplained step-by-step

This guide is an overview of every step we took in building our prototype of the tyre foundation. Since it was our first attempt, not all of our processes are optimized and need further development. However, this should serve as an inspiration for anyone with a similar situation and is open for discussion and improvement.

Beforehand a list of tools we used
in the progress:

welding machine,crowbar,grinder,hammer,wheelbarrow,bench drill,shovel,cutter.

Throughout each phase, we remind you that it’s important to protect yourself using appropriate safety equipment.

For this, you will need:

helmets,protective goggles,appropriate protective gloves,security shoes,reusable dust masks.

Preparation of the ground

The first and most important step before starting any foundation is the analysis of the ground. The soil has to have a sufficient bearing capacity. If the soil is not suitable there are different possibilities like reinforcing the soil, digging deeper, or adapting the foundation type to a wider tyre for example. In our case, we needed to dig until +/- 70 cm under the floor level to find a proper soil. We decided to put a layer of 5 cm of compressed gravel, frequently used under footings to have a correct level.

Estimated time: 6 to 8 hours per pit,
depending on the toughness of the ground

Woman levelling ground
Leveling the ground of the pit

The base metal plate

The metal plate is the base of the foundation and serves as a solid surface for the tyres. We chose a thickness of 2 cm. To have the plate and also the column connected to the foundation we welded 4 threaded rods to the plate. The socket will be attached to these rods later on. Before putting the plate in the pit we put a breathable and waterproof membrane supposed to protect the plate from humidity in the ground. An EPDM membrane might have been a more suitable choice to increase the durability of the protection. We tried to wrap the plate as well as possible. Additionally, we painted the base plate and especially the weld joints with anti-corrosive paint. We still don’t know how this will react with the time, neither if it is going to be efficient enough to protect the welds. Our main objective is to take all the necessary precautions to avoid that water eventually permeates and settles at the bottom of the foundation. In our next tyre foundation build, we would consider drilling some holes in the metal plate to allow for the draining of water infiltration. The use of this metal plate was advised by our engineer to level the ground on which the foundation itself would set, but we didn’t find any other project using a similar precaution. It was also helpful for us to link the column to the foundation on a robust way.

Metal plate wrapped with membrane
Metal plate wrapped with membrane

Estimated time: 2 to 6 hours,
depending on accessible tools to cut the plate on the good dimensions

Metal plate on the ground of the pit
Metal plate on the ground of the pit

Preparation of the columns

The columns we used are made out of two 12×24 cm construction plywood beams. To join the two pieces we glued and screwed them together. The section is therefore 24×24 cm. To protect the wood from fire, water and pests we applied a layer of wood ash on the tyre, as well as protected the wooden column with a layer of borax, known as a protection against mold and repellent against insects. For a specific protection to prevent a specific termite attack, we paint the column with a mix of essential orange oil (5%) and linseed oil (95%). We will soon dedicate a detailed article to wood protection from fire, water and pests.

Estimated time: 2 hours.

Preparation of the socket

We used a steel socket to fix the column with the foundation. The socket is connected to the foundation with four threaded rods. It is fundamental to align properly the rods after putting the base plate, so that the columns would be aligned to each other. We used a wooden guide to secure the rods’ position while filling the tires. This guide is composed of two pieces that represent the two plates, with the holes for the threaded rods, and a long bar that helps to maintain them aligned and in place.

Metal plate on the ground of the pit
Metal plate on the ground of the pit

Estimated time: 4 to 6 hours,
depending on accessible tools to cut the steel and drill the holes.

Tyre foundation alignment
Checking the alignment

Filling of the tyres

In its rawest form, the tyres can only be filled with earth. Lots of case studies for earth filled tyre foundations are in relatively dry climates where the temperature doesn’t go below 0°C. It is preferable to use an other sub-grade as gravel or other material to encourage drainage and allow for water expansion, and then avoiding some major instability in the ground caused by frost. We decided to choose gravel made of local accessible granite, from the North of Portugal. We had the choice of three sizes of gravel. After some discussions with our engineer, we decided to order the smallest to have better cohesion. We also added some sand to create a mix with better bonding and leave no empty space between the gravel. We used the ratio of two parts gravel to one part of sand (2:1). The mix in the tyres has to be then as compressed as possible. At first, the tyre can be filled with a shovel and by hands. When it is not possible to get any more of the mix in, a crowbar and a piece of wood can be used to open the tyre (see how they did at the Holy Trinity Church Tulse Hill). Once held open, a second person can continue to fill up the space with the mix. A piece of wood can be used to shove the mix in as deep as possible and a hammer to compress it. This needs to be done until the tyre is inflated and no more mix can be added. The foundation is now ready for the socket.

One member of the CC Team inside a tyre.

Filling a tyre with gravel.

Filling a tyre with gravel and compressing

Estimated time: 6 hours for two people to fill the 2 tyres for one foundation
(a truck and a car tyre).

Installation of the socket

The steel socket which is holding the column is made out of three pieces of steel. The objective is to obtain a socket that correctly holds the column. We thought about different forms and finally settled with a “U”-form, that could maintain the feet of the columns and be correctly fixed to the lower part of the foundation.

Metal flanges on base plate
Base plate

The first part being the base plate (30x30cm), which has four holes to be fixed with the threaded rods of the foundation. The holes of the plate have to line up with the position of the threaded rods and should be 1mm bigger than the diameter of the rods to facilitate their insertion. Our rods were 12mm diameter. The second part being the two steel brackets (15x20cm), which are welded to the plate and hold the column with two horizontal threaded rods. The individual steps of this process are explained below.

Drill metal plate
(1) The holes in both of the brackets, which should be shifted, can be drilled and should be at least 2-3mm bigger than the rods.

Plate and flange
(2) Afterward, the first bracket can be welded on the base plate.

Drill flange to timber column

(3) The piece, that results from this step can be used to mark the position of the holes on the wood of the column. For this, half of the steel socket can just be laid on the column.

Column sitting on base
Image

(4) It might be necessary to cut a little edge of the column so there is some space for the weld. After marking the holes, they can be drilled also 2-3mm bigger than the rod. The bigger the holes are, the more room there is to adjust and compensate for potential inaccuracies.

Column on base

(5) The next step is to find the right position for the second bracket. For this, the socket can be laid on the floor, and the column can be put on it. The rods can be stuck through the holes of the first bracket, the column and the second bracket, which is not fixed yet. Also, the bolts can be put on and tightened.

Sketch of steel base plate
Column steel base plate sketch

(6) The second bracket should now touch the base plate and there should be no gap. If it doesn’t, any holes can be drilled bigger to make it fit properly. If it fits, it can be fixed by welding on 4-5 small points. Afterward, the column can be removed. The second bracket should be in the right position and can now be welded on completely.

Estimated time: 5 hoursto install the socket: drill, weld and adjust.

Installation of the columns

Once the socket is welded together in the “U”-form and the holes are drilled, the foundation is ready to receive the columns which have a section of 24×24 cm.Having an even level foundation is crucial and is something to pay extra attention to, during all the process. First, we used the spirit level to check the level of the lower plate, to ensure that the tyre will be placed on level ground. Indeed, it is important to keep in mind that the column will apply a heavy load that needs to be properly transferred to the foundation. For the next steps, the laying of the tyres and the fixation of the socket, make sure to always keep checking the level and the alignment of each foundation.

Metal base plate
Checking the level of the metal plate

Estimated time: 2 hours.

2 men working in workshop
Preparing the columns

The retaining wall

In our case, one of the foundations is positioned under the level of the earth, in an outside environment, that forced us to find a solution for the rainwater not entering inside the workshop space. A retaining wall has been constructed to withstand lateral pressure of soil, due to earth and rainwater. There are a lot of different retaining walls, used for different situations for example the gabion retaining wall or the cantilever retaining wall.

Building retaining wall
Building the retaining wall

In our case, we built a gravity retaining wall that depends on its self-weight only to resist lateral earth pressure. Commonly, this needs to be of large proportions because it requires a significant gravity load. We constructed the wall from granite stones that we had acquired from previous deconstruction of old walls. To protect the column from water infiltration, we bonded the stones with a lime mortar mix.

Furthermore, we plan to realize a drain which prevents rainwater from entering the basement. Parallel to the retaining wall, it will collect excess water and runs it through a pipe into a sump away.

Cost and Time Comparison

Since we are using the tyre foundation instead of a concrete foundation, the comparison of cost is a crucial point. For this reason we compare only the part of the foundation which is replaceable. The socket and the column are therefore not part of the comparison, since they are the same for both versions. We already pointed out the factor of sustainability, which is our driver in this matter. But what does this mean from an economical point of view? A tyre foundation in its simplest form is only made from dirt and scrap tyres and is therefore basically free. This method is suited for retaining walls and foundations that don’t require anchoring. Our Approach of a highly stressed single step footing which includes anchoring cost approximately 125€ compared to the concrete version of approximately 28€. As the calculation shows, the major cost factor is the metal plate which is also an open question for us. Its necessity is not completely clarified wherefore we are looking for alternatives which even out differences in price and make the single step foundation an economically competitive alternative.

Table showing cost and comparison

It is to be added that the concrete should be mixed homogeneously by a cement mixer rather than by hand, and that welding the steel reinforcement takes some time as well and electricity, and quite a few welding electrodes. In terms of time, the concrete takes at least 7 days to set sufficiently for a foundation in order to set-up the column, but is faster to make, comparatively.

Conclusion

In the process of finishing the green roof, the application of the tyre foundation has been challenging but successful so far. It is carrying the roof structure but needs further observation as to how it will react under the full load of the green roof including soil and vegetation. To be able to observe any kind of movement we installed a measuring unit that we will control regularly.

Measuring settling of tyre foundation
Movement measurement
How to store food outside of the fridge
Sustainable Satisfaction? 

Concrete is an extremely popular material for construction and can be found in most parts of the world. Today concrete is the primary material used for foundations because of its many positive attributes: it is strong in compression, it is flexible as it can be poured into adapted forms and sizes, it can be applied in situ, it has good fire resistant qualities. However, the production of Portland cement, an essential constituent of concrete, leads to the release of significant amounts of CO2 and other greenhouse gases. Because of limited natural resources, such as sand, and the output of greenhouse gases, concrete production is not sustainable and therefore requires alternatives in the construction field. A possibility is to use recycled materials which have low energy costs, high durability and low maintenance requirements and therefore a small impact on the environment.

The single step footing foundation represent a viable and affordable alternative method we are looking forward to developing and using in further projects.

You want to see more? Check out the video to see how we experimented with scrap tyres and compressed earth&gravel for a low-impact and concrete free building! 
:ok_hand:

Sources

[Ar. Bindu agarwal, Ar. Aanchal Sharma] “Reuse of Waste Materials: A case study of Earthships”, in: International Journal of Science, Engineering and Technology Research (IJSETR) Volume 6, Issue 10, October 2017, [Online] available at: http://ijsetr.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/IJSETR-VOL-6-ISSUE-10-1364-1369.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Architecture 2030] “Buildings generate nearly 40% of annual global GHG emissions”, [Online] available at architecture2030.org/buildings_problem_why/ (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Andrew, Robbie M.] “Global CO2 emissions from cement production, 1928–2018”, CICERO Center for International Climate Research, [Online] available at: https://www.earth-syst-sci-data-discuss.net/essd-2019-152/essd-2019-152.pdf (Last accessed December 2019).

[Decorex Pro] “Technology for the construction of the foundation of tires”, [Online] available at: /en.decorexpro.com/fundament/iz-pokryshek/ (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Department for Business, Innovation and Skills London] “Estimating the Amount of CO2 Emissions that the construction industry can influence”, [Online] available at: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/31737/10-1316-estimating-co2-emissions-supporting-low-carbon-igt-report.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Deva Racusin, Jacob; McArleton, Ace] “The Natural Building Companion: A Comprehensive Guide to Integrative Design and Construction”, 2012

[Flexagon Office] “Fondations et plots”, in: La Maison Ecologique 67 – fevrier et mars 2012, [Online] available at: http://yourtes.net/fichiers/Fondations%20et%20plots%20-%20La%20Maison%20Ecologique%2067%20-%20fevrier%20et
%20mars%202012.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019)

[Holy Trinity Tulse Hill on YouTube] “Packing Car Tyre Foundations (Car Tyre Foundations #4)”, [Online] available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YV2TG5aypw (Last accessed in December 2019)

[Holy Trinity Tulse Hill on YouTube] “Car Tyre Foundations Plate Test”, [Online] available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8Vlz6qNCfU (Last accessed in December 2019)

[König, H., Weissenfeld, P.] “Entretien écologique du bois”, ed. La plage, 2008.

[Lowimpact] “Why cement should never be used with natural buildings”, [Online] available at: https://www.lowimpact.org/why-cement-should-never-be-used-on-straw-bale-houses/ (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Mechanical Concrete] “Award Winning, Economical, Green, Industrial Strength, Construction Technology”, [Online] available at: http://www.mechanicalconcrete.com/ (Last accessed in December 2019]

[Miteco] “Descarbonatac fabrical”, [Online] available at: https://www.miteco.gob.es/es/calidad-y-evaluacion-ambiental/temas/sistema-espanol-de-inventario-sei-/040614-descarbonatac-fabric-cal_tcm30-429852.pdf [Last accessed in December 2019)

[Miteco] “Combust fabricamento”, [Online] available at: https://www.miteco.gob.es/es/calidad-y-evaluacion-ambiental/temas/sistema-espanol-de-inventario-sei-/030311-combust-fabric-cemento_tcm30-430164.pdf (Last accessed in December 2019)

[Naik, Tarun R.] “Sustainability of Concrete Construction”, [Online] available at: https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/%28ASCE%291084-0680%282008%2913%3A2%2898%29 (Last accessed in December 2019).

[Russian Patents] “Module-type anti-seismic protective unit for buildings and structures”, [Online] available at: https://russianpatents.com/patent/225/2250308.html (Last accessed in December 2019]

[World Green Building Council] “New report: the building and construction sector can reach net zero carbon emissions by 2050”, [Online] available at: ww.worldgbc.org/news-media/WorldGBC-embodied-carbon-report-published (Last accessed in December 2019).

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Compost Toilet : Our response to water scarcity?

Let us introduce the newest addition to our production center in Porto: the compost toilet! Although human waste is a taboo subject, we will be talking about poop a lot in this article. After all, if you refuse to address a topic, how can you challenge the conventional and unsustainable systems that surround it?

One unsustainable aspect of conventional toilets is water. Most toilets in wealthy countries use potable water to flush toilets, but water is a resource that is becoming scarce amid rising global temperatures. [1] [2] Even if this were not the case, the fact we contaminate drinking water on purpose reflects a dire need to challenge this convention. Human excrement, ironically, is a valuable resource. It can be used as a source of food for bacteria. Sewage, as well as diseases linked with fecal contamination of the environment, can be eliminated when composting is adopted as a sanitation method.[9]

In our phytodepuration article, we explored one alternative method for wastewater treatment. It consists of a marsh-like condition, in which greywater and blackwater are filtered and purified using plants. Compost toilets are the inverse; they require no water and use dead plants rather than living ones. Essentially, microbes break the waste down into humus, a completely decomposed organic material. Besides feces, the other necessary ingredients for composting are straw, sawdust, dead leaves, or wood chips. These carbon-rich materials are known in the composting world as “browns,” while the nitrogen-rich feces make up “The Greens.” The balance of browns and greens is crucial to successful decomposition; a composting toilet without carbon-rich material would not result in compost and would be a health hazard. Additionally, the browns act as a cover material to expunge smells.

Across the world, different prototypes of compost toilets are being tested within diverse capacities and contexts. One such example is the project Mobile Dry Diversion Toilet in Lagos developed by FABULOUS URBAN with several partners since 2017. The project targets families in low-income communities who do not have access to domestic sanitation. This prototype separates the urine and feces into different compartments, which finally facilitates the process of composting. [4] The urea present in urine degrades into ammonia while not only has an off putting smell but also is the reason for the extermination of the bacteria that would otherwise break down the waste.[5] For further explanation, you may follow the link to the original article. Mobile Dry Diversion Toilet


Mock-up prototype being constructed to be tested for the project Mobile Dry Diversion Toilet Photo. © FABULOUS URBAN

Public acceptance, regulations, and a lack of expertise and experience in composting toilet design and operation are all obstacles to the use of composting toilets in urban environments [3].

We have been testing our system here at the Critical Concrete office.

COMPONENTS OF OUR SYSTEM INCLUDE:

a large compost pilea toilet chambera bucket within the chambera seat for the chamber


The assembly of components of the our compost toiletTo use the compost toilet, users cover their poop with a layer of carbon-rich material. In our case, this is mostly sawdust because it is a waste material that we always have on hand. Once the collection bucket in the toilet is full, we empty it into the outdoor compost pile dedicated solely to the compost toilet. The fresh layer of waste is covered with more sawdust, which immediately removes the smell and wards away flies. We then rinse the bucket, pour the rinsing water on the compost pile to help moisten the compost pile, and cover the compost pile again with fresh sawdust.


Our compost pile setup

We use our compost primarily for feces as we are an office which means the usage of this toilet for urine will be more than feces. The imbalance of the proportion of urine and feces could result in a slower composting process. A low level of urine is not an issue for the decomposition, but with our compost pile located near our living space, we want to avoid the smell that it can cause. In the active compost pile, the waste completes its conversion into humus. The temperature at the core of the active compost pile can reach upto approximately 650C. The covering material such as saw dust, hay, weeds, straw is referred as biological sponge in the figure on the right. Once the compost pile is high enough, we leave it to cure for oneyear, after which it is safe to use for gardening. The curing time for compost containing human waste is longer than most compost piles, but it ensures the extermination of pathogens present in the feces before its use.


Section through the compost pile © The Humanure Handbook: shit in a nutshell


Temperature reading from our active compost pile

Making a functional compost toilet can be challenging, so of course, we had to manage some difficulties.  First, the volume of our waste output is disproportionate to our available yard space. After just three months of using the toilet, the compost pile is half-full. Since the active compost pile still needs to be cured once it is ample, we may have to pause our use of the compost toilet at that point. If we had unlimited space in our yard, we would have had the chance to start a new compost pile. But in an urban setting like ours, that is not an option. Our second challenge is that our active compost pile is dry because we use a lot of sawdust. In order to create a hospitable environment for the suitable bacteria to break down our waste, we need to add moisture to the pile. At this point having some levels of urine present in the compost pile would help but, we use some greywater from washing dishes instead in order to avoid washing drinking water and unpleasant smell of urine. It will be also good to mention that according to “the Humanure Handbook: shit in a nutshell” by Joseph Jenkins for a household the separating urine and feces is not necessary.[9]


Rich fertile compost

Even though there are some obstacles to using a compost toilet, especially in an urban environment, the system is quite simple overall. For us, it is a way to transition from relying on a flush toilet and better our water usage while producing garden material. We will update our progress on this blog and our social media as we adapt to this new and improved option for human waste management in our headquarters.


Do’s and Don’ts © The Humanure Handbook: shit in a nutshell

 

Bibliography

[1] United Nations, “Scarcity | UN-Water,” UN-Water, 2011. https://www.unwater.org/water-facts/scarcity/.

[2] E. Saner, “The no-flush movement: the unexpected rise of the composting toilet,” The Guardian, Dec. 09, 2019.

[3] C. K. Anand and D. S. Apul, “Composting toilets as a sustainable alternative to urban sanitation – A review,” Waste Management, vol. 34, no. 2, pp. 329–343, Feb. 2014, doi: 10.1016/j.wasman.2013.10.006.

[4] “Mobile Dry Diversion Toilet FABULOUS URBAN,” Swiss-Architects. https://www.swiss-architects.com/en/fabulous-urban-zurich/project/mobile-dry-diversion-toilet?nonav=1 (accessed Oct. 06, 2021).

[5] N. Rogers, “Composting toilets could be the way of the future,” ABC News, Jun. 24, 2019.

[6] T. Avellán, “The world needs more toilets – but not ones that flush,” The Conversation, Mar. 21, 2017. https://theconversation.com/the-world-needs-more-toilets-but-not-ones-that-flush-74007 (accessed Oct. 07, 2021).

[7] “Saving water in the home,” nidirect, Oct. 20, 2015. https://www.nidirect.gov.uk/articles/saving-water-home.

[8] N. Hancock, “Safe Drinking Water Foundation,” Safe Drinking Water Foundation, Nov. 30, 2016. https://www.safewater.org/fact-sheets-1/2017/1/23/water-consumption.

[9] J. C. Jenkins, HUMANURE HANDBOOK : shit in a nutshell. S.L.: Chelsea Green, 2019.

 

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How to make green roofs really green?

After three years of research, design and construction, our 130 square meter roof is finally finished! 

We are happy to share with you an overview of all the steps we went through, the sustainable technologies we integrated into this project, and the impact we think green roofs can have on our urban landscapes. 

Watch the video below for an explainer of the process of constructing our ecological green roof: 

This journey started three years ago with the demolition of the old roof and replacement with a glulam structure. Along the way we integrated several sustainable technologies that we have documented with articles and videos. For instance, we used recycled tyres for the foundations of our wooden wall structure and protected the exterior timber facade using our charring technique inspired in the traditional japanese process of Yakisugi. 

For more information about these researches, check our previous articles here.

CHARRING STATION

Charring Station

TYRE FOUNDATION

Green roofs are often proposed as a solution to the lack of green space in urban environments or as a way of slowing down the flow of water. But do conventional green roofs actually deliver on these claims? Our research of modern green roofs found that the materials used in construction often do not align with the sustainability ethos that a green roof proclaims. We sought to find alternatives to plastic filters, insulation, and drainage systems: the materials that typically make up the layers of a green roof. In our mission to adopt low-tech, sustainable architecture and construction techniques we wanted to reduce material consumption and also make it as easy to replicate and apply in other situations as possible.

Our green roof layers


Green Roof detail

EPDM


Laying EPDM around rooflights
Silicone fixing
EPDM Silicone

We needed a waterproof layer to cover the OSB roof layer and protect from water ingress. We chose EPDM, a synthetic rubber, due to its availability and long life span. 

Geotextile

To protect the cork from the plant roots and the substrate a geotextile layer is needed. This prevents silt and other fine particles from clogging the grid drainage system within the cork. Geotextiles are semi permeable fabrics that help separate soil layers but permit the passage of fluids. 

Irrigation System

For the climate we enjoy here in Porto an irrigation system is definitely not necessary. However in order to control the parameters of Neoturf’s experiment a system was installed. In the future we will build a rainwater harvesting system that will allow us to store and re-use rainwater for non potable purposes. Watch this space!

Cork Insulation

Cork
Cork grid

Laying the cork panels

The most cutting edge element of this design is the inclusion of cork insulation, thanks to a partnership with Neoturf, who conducted the research about this design. This is the first time this design and technology has been implemented on a green roof of this size so we are very excited and hopeful for the results. The expanded cork is a by-product of the industrial process for manufacturing wine corks and is being increasingly used in construction. We explain more about this carbon negative wonder material in a full article here. 

Cork is a carbon negative material as the trees it is harvested from absorb CO2 from the atmosphere as they grow. These cork boards provide insulation – with the thermal efficiency of Lambda 0.038-0.040 watts per meter kelvin or R3.6/inch.In cold months this is comparable to synthetic materials such as expanded polystyrene during warm weather synthetic insulation performs very poorly due to having low thermal mass [1].  Additionally, in order to allow water to drain a grid was pre-cut into the panels: vital to withstand Porto’s frequent downpours. By using this design and material we negate the need for synthetic insulation, plastic drainage cups, and other plastic liners. 

Substrates

The second experimental aspect of our green roof is being investigated in partnership with Neoturf, who specialise in landscape design and nature based solutions. The soil that is used on green roofs cannot be composed of simply hummus. It requires other gravels or materials that reduce compaction and promote effective drainage. Neoturf are investigating how well 3 different substrates that use recycled construction waste perform in contrast to the commercially available alternative. Should this research prove successful they will promote the widespread use of recycled waste as substrate across the industry. Over the next two years they will monitor the progress of the plants growing on our roof. 

Interview with Paolo Palha from Neoturf

Check out an in-depth interview with Paolo Palha, researcher and engineer from Neoturf, that gives us insights into the significance of his research and what they are expecting to find in the next couple of years, monitoring the plants’ growth:

Conclusion

This green roof represents three years of hard work, prototype development, and teamwork. Countless hands have helped repair walls, build structure, haul earth and the thousands of other tasks needed to realise this ambitious project. We send huge love and thanks to everyone who has helped in any way. This is a major milestone for us and we are excited to see our plants grow healthy and strong. Neoturf will continue with this research over the next two years, after which we can adapt the roof to grow our own food and reach a higher level of self-sustainability.


Are you interested in implementing an ecological green roof in your project? Critical Concrete can provide advice, design and construction services for the whole process: including structure, procurement and material sourcing. Contact our studio today!

Interested in using this technology in your project?

Critical Studio can help!

Learn More!

We need your support to continue researching and developing ecological, low tech solutions. Check out our patreon to see what perks we offer in return for helping us on our sustainable mission.

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Co-ops, Cohousing & co.

Cooperative housing is discussed in one module of our Sustainable-Sustainable Architecture postgraduate course; if the topics discussed in this article pique your interest, you may be a wonderful candidate. Learn more here.

Introduction

Living in a single-family unit, either in a house or apartment building has become the living standard, but it isn’t the only possibility. Many houses are equipped with appliances and rooms that are used rarely or on a weekly basis, which suggests that there may be a more functional system out there. On the other hand, many houses in urban settings are cramped and unhealthy due to the rising cost of living in cities and urban migration. This inequity is only growing with urban migration patterns and gentrification. 

The single-family housing model is not a viable paradigm for the future. Not only is it an inefficient use of space, but it is also isolating and fails to nurture community. It tends to be cramped for the poor and leaves vulnerable groups to fend for themselves. On a deeper level, these aspects are the exact opposite of what allowed early humans to create society.

Architects, theorists, and dreamers have all wondered how our dwellings can be reshaped for better quality of life and higher affordability, but to solve these issues, they don’t need to strive for the most complicated answer. Two possibilities already exist to challenge the housing paradigm. Housing cooperatives have existed for over a century and challenge the notion of housing as a commodity. Cohousing is a method of living with others to maximize space, resources, and community. These ideas have potential to not only remedy urban housing challenges, but also to home in on environmental sustainability in domestic spaces.


a basic comparison

Cooperative Housing

Housing cooperatives, or co-ops, have existed throughout history, yet in most places they are not recognized as mainstream housing possibilities. In fact, they’ve gone so far under the radar that you might be wondering what in the world a housing cooperative is. Let’s rewind.

A housing cooperative is a housing business which has shared ownership by its residents.[1] The goal of this collective ownership is affordability rather than profit.[2] Aside from collective ownership, there is one feature that is almost always present in coops: democratic processes.[3] Residents get to vote on the major decisions of the cooperative, such as who can replace a former resident, or whether solar panels should be purchased for the building. Other important elements of cooperative housing are commitment to social goals, security in community, decent housing, personal growth, and transparency in management.[4]

The modern history of housing cooperatives in Europe began in the 1800s in Berlin with Victor Aimé Huber’s cooperative dwellings.[5] The practice evolved and expanded, becoming an opportunity for decent affordable housing and as a possibility for people to have more control over their living conditions. 

Kalkbreite | Genossenschaft Kalkbreite
Kalkbreite Cooperative in Zurich

Differences between Cooperatives

As the practice of founding co-ops spread and grew more prevalent, many differences arose. There are limited-equity coops, often for low and moderate income shareholders, market-value ownership coops, which do not require affordability; rental co-ops which have more secure tenure and have mixed-income tenants; and mutual aid co-ops which are based on solidarity and self help and are usually self-built.[6] Depending on the country and its policies, funding a new housing cooperative could rely on government, banks, or private investors. Cooperatives can be rural or urban, high rise or groups of single family housing.[7] Some co-ops began as ventures to create exclusive and wealthy multi-family housing whereas others were intended to create housing for the poor.

The most pronounced differences between cooperatives comes down to financing and legal constraints, both of which are influenced by the government where a cooperative is located. Cooperatives around the world vary subtly because of governmental constraints in their respective countries, so these are a few examples to show the possibilities.

In Austria, a country with a strong social housing sector, housing cooperatives which are below market-rate are exempt from corporation tax.[8] The government offers subsidies through public housing schemes via low-interest grants or mortgages that cover some of the construction costs.[9] In Egypt, cooperatives are exempt from many taxes, from industry profit taxes to custom taxes and importing fees, some fees including building license fees and publishing fees, and interest of deposits in banks.[10] They receive a 25% discount on state owned land which can be increased to 50%.[11] 


FCH Housing Project in Egypt

Portugal’s government reduces the VAT from 20% to 5% for cooperatives, and they also provide tax exemptions on land acquisitions and subsidize interest rates for cooperatives with low-income target groups.[12] Pakistan has a unique system for cooperative development: the state provides land to cooperatives, but cooperative shareholders are responsible for the construction of their residence on the plot they are assigned.[13] Interestingly enough, in Germany, although housing cooperatives do receive tax relief, they do not receive money from social housing funds; co-ops are not part of social housing there.[14]

The presence of housing cooperatives often hinges on politics. Since cooperatives greatly benefit from the aforementioned subsidies, tax relief, government loans, and other governmental support, proliferation of new co-ops can fluctuate with political changes. Furthermore, governments can incentivise cooperatives through policy, but they can also place limits on the founding of new cooperatives. For instance, Poland banned cooperatives in 1990, a marked difference from the years they had spent becoming mainstream during the socialist regime.[15] On the contrary, Portugal experienced an increase in co-ops after an authoritarian government which opposed the values of cooperatives was replaced.[16] In Pakistan, a corruption scandal from a cooperative paused registration of new housing cooperatives.[17]

Membership practices in cooperatives mean that even in rental cooperatives, residents are less passive inhabitants than in typical multi-family housing. Democratic foundations within cooperatives mean residents vote on management, changes, and governing structures. Each shareholder can have one vote, but in some co-ops the number of votes is equal to the number of shares. Some cooperatives require all decisions to be voted on by everyone, whereas others allow members the option of voting. Whichever way the voting system plays out, members of cooperatives have a stronger sense of ownership and participation, and can motivate one another to create a greener, healthier housing cooperative.


Student Cooperative in California via tsakett on Flickr

Cohousing

Cooperative housing shouldn’t be confused with cohousing, a modern iteration of intentional living developed in Denmark.[18] Cohousing can be implemented within cooperative housing; the two are separate systems which have potential to work together. Cohousing challenges the single family home in favor of sharing space and creating a stronger community.

Although the idea of living with others isn’t new, the term “cohousing” only arose in 1988 after two architects from the United States observed the phenomenon in Denmark, where it had gained traction.[19] Exactly twenty years prior, architect Jan Gudmand-Hoyer had spent several months discussing housing alternatives with a group of friends, developing plans for 12 houses gathered around a common space.[20] Although the project never took form, he published an influential article on the project entitled “The Missing Link between Utopia and the Dated One-Family House” which elicited responses from many families eager to live in such a situation.[21] Another article, “Children Should Have One Hundred Parents” by Bodil Graae, garnered further interest in the concept.[22] After the articles were published, families came together to purchase sites and construct two projects by 1973, which formed the blueprint for cohousing in Denmark.[23]


Rudolph Schindler House in Los Angeles via Lian Chang on Flickr

The ideas are far from new. While Gudmand-Hoyer and Graae were writing these articles, the hippie movement in the sixties was awash with communes and ideas challenging single-family living. But unlike cohousing, many hippie communes were infamous for being financially and socially unsustainable. Additionally, with roots in the early 1900’s, the intentional communities called kibbutz are well known examples shared living from Israel. In California, the Austrian architect Rudolph Schindler built one of the first ever modernist houses, designed for two families to live cooperatively and share one common kitchen.[24] All this is to say that cohousing is not a particularly unique idea, although its less radical stance is possibly what makes it such a viable housing option.

However, what differentiates cohousing from similar ideas like kibbutzim or ecovillages is that cohousing is primarily an architectural design which fosters community alongside a social agreement to live cooperatively. It does not have ideological connotations and can manifest in various ways. Cohousing can be rural or urban, meaning unlike other kinds of intentional communities, it can respond to the global urban influx. Additionally, cohousing may be equipped to handle the challenges of  urban living, such as elder- and childcare along with social isolation. Some cohousing situations share chores in common spaces such as cooking, which tends to free up time for those with busy schedules. 


Spreefeld Berlin Via MitOst on Flickr

Sustainability in Cohousing

Cohousing has some inherent advantages for sustainability. First, dense dwellings groups are more efficient to heat or cool. If the kitchen and living areas are shared, less furniture is needed and kitchen appliances only need to be purchased once for multiple families. By living in close proximity, people can share their skills, which means residents can help each other with tasks like repairing broken items instead of wasting them and buying new things. Additional benefits include purchasing food in bulk, which is better for transportation and uses less packaging. Shared garden spaces mean some food can also be cultivated in a community garden. Having a garden also provides a space to incorporate a compost bin, a challenging feature for typical urban housing.

Cohousing also has the benefit of community learning and social practices, which helps propagate care for the environment and ecological values.[25] By living with many people, there can be less car dependence. Tasks like grocery shopping can be divided and commuting to work can be done with fewer cars.[26] Finally, shared meals can result in lower food waste.[27]


Vauban Cohousing in Freiburg

Housing More Sustainably

There is potential for even more sustainability in cohousing projects. The fact that many cohousing projects are cooperatively owned, purchased before construction is complete, or even designed with input from the future residents is something that allows for even more ecological interventions. If cohousing projects are designed with sustainability in mind, they can be more energy efficient and prioritize passive sustainable strategies. For instance, common areas can incorporate daylighting and efficient ventilation. The design can include a root cellar to store vegetables for long periods in winter without the use of a fridge. Natural materials such as hempcrete, mycelium, cork, rammed earth and many more could all be used as building materials. Since some cohousing projects include aspects of self-building or auto-construction, materials and techniques are employed with easy repairability and designs that factor in longevity. Some features of sustainable design, like solar panels, come at a premium, but if a project is cooperatively owned, these additional costs are spread out among all the owners.

Occupant ownership via the housing cooperative model also means that there can be experimental sustainable practices that wouldn’t usually be possible in conventional multi-family housing. A garden could be designed to have a phytodepuration wastewater treatment system, which would simultaneously provide a beautiful marsh landscape in the common area. There could be compost toilets, green roofs, or food forests, too. With an ecological group of residents, there is also potential for the use and maintenance of a biodigester to produce biogas for cooking. The possibilities are endless, especially with lots of community minded people with various skills willing to contribute to communal projects.

Conclusion

Cohousing and cooperatives are two approaches to financial and ecological housing issues. They provide a peek into what housing would look like if we didn’t approach it from a single-family perspective. When the concepts are combined, they create feasible models for better living conditions, affordable housing, and stronger communities. Moving away from profit and towards collective action gives an added opportunity for a more ecological way of living. Existing cohousing cooperatives are great launch pads for pushing the possibilities of environmentally sustainable multi-family housing, while budding cohousing cooperatives have the opportunity to design healthy living spaces for both people and the planet. 

[1] https://4bfebv17goxj464grl4a02gz-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/drupal/Profiles%20of%20a%20movement%20final%20web%20ISBN.pdf

[2] Note: There are some cooperatives which are not intended to be affordable housing, but the collective ownership does improve the affordability, even in those cases.

[3] https://www.ica.coop/en/events/cooperative-housing-key-model-sustainable-housing-europe

[4]https://4bfebv17goxj464grl4a02gz-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/drupal/Profiles%20of%20a%20movement%20final%20web%20ISBN.pdf

[5] https://www.housingeurope.eu/event-183/cooperative-housing

[6] https://www.housinginternational.coop/sdgs-2/cooperative-housing-models/

[7] https://4bfebv17goxj464grl4a02gz-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/drupal/Profiles%20of%20a%20movement%20final%20web%20ISBN.pdf

[8] https://4bfebv17goxj464grl4a02gz-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/drupal/Profiles%20of%20a%20movement%20final%20web%20ISBN.pdf

[9] Ibid.

[10] Ibid.

[11] Ibid.

[12] Ibid.

[13] Ibid.

[14] Ibid.

[15] Ibid.

[16] Ibid.

[17] Ibid.

[18]  https://www.cohousing.ca/about-cohousing/history-of-cohousing/

[19] http://www.cohousingco.com/cohousing

[20] https://www.cohousing.ca/about-cohousing/history-of-cohousing/

[21] Ibid.

[22] Ibid.

[23] Ibid.

[24] https://www.archdaily.com/783384/ad-classics-kings-road-house-rudolf-schindler

[25] https://www.iberdrola.com/social-commitment/cohousing

[26]  https://www.moneycrashers.com/communal-living-cohousing-types-benefits-intentional-communities/

[27]  https://www.moneycrashers.com/communal-living-cohousing-types-benefits-intentional-communities/

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Natural Wood Protection – Vol. 2

Researching new methods of wood protection are of key importance for the work we do here at Critical Concrete. Wood is the primary material we use to build and renovate houses; from the structure, to the cladding, and the furniture. Priorities of our wood protection solutions include; relatively low-cost, accessible materials, simple recipes. Prioritising these aspects means it is easy to scale up for large projects. 

Tricoil

For our renovation project in Esposende, we rebuilt the roof with a wooden structure, so it was essential to protect the wood for the longevity of the building. With the cladding substructure, window lintel, and furniture we had a lot of wood to treat. Through research of various recipes we came up with a recipe and method which fit the requirements we had. 

TRICOIL (Turpentine/Tung Raw Linseed I Coconut OIL or 3 oil) is a blend of three different oils which gives protection from parasites and environmental conditions. Linseed oil, Tung oil, and Coconut oil are blended together using turpentine as a solvent to combine the oils and allow for deeper penetration of tricoil into the wood. The original recipe and method we based this upon can be found here [1]. 

Tung oil has been used by the Chinese for hundreds of years to protect wooden boats. It is derived from pressing the nuts of the Tung tree. It has anti-termitic properties and offers durable waterproofing. 

Raw Linseed oil, obtained from pressing flax seeds, creates a water repellent barrier on the wood.

Coconut oil, rich in fatty acids, nourishes and protects the wood. 

Turpentine, a solvent derived from tree resin, thins and blends the oils for easy application to the wood. 

Method


Ratio of ingredients for TRICOIL

Heat a large pot of water to 50°C to act as a bain-marie. Place a jar of coconut oil and turpentine into the bain-marie and cook until this mixture has also reached 50°C, stir often. If you have a big enough pot, you can do the same with the linseed oil and tung oil together in one jar, placed in the bain-marie. Once the mixtures have reached the temperature, mix them together.
The Tricoil is now ready to be applied on clean, sanded wood. Apply to the wood once per day for 3-4 days and dry in an open space. 

Burning Station

Since discovering the wonders of Yakisugi, it has become a firm favourite as a method of protecting wood in many of our projects. Our first article in wood protection dives into the science of the method and the properties of charred wood. 

After a fair few projects using our brick burning station at CC HQ, we enlisted it for charring wood for the cladding of the Esposende house. Around a half ton of bricks were put in the van and rebuilt on the street. After so many uses at such high temperatures the normal bricks and even special fire-bricks began to crack and posed a risk of collapse while using the stove. Thus we decided to design a new, super-portable, efficient charring station. 


Blueprint of the new charring station

The body of the charring station consists of an old oil drum, an inlet for passing the wood to be treated through, a feeder for fuel, and a hole to attach a chimney. It mimics the previous charring station with the L shape encouraging an upward draft. The feeder is made of an old fire extinguisher welded on with extra metal for support. 

With the use of two rollers, 1 person can manage the charring station themselves. If the fire is burning well and frequently stocked, it is possible to char a 3m 30x3cm board in 10-15 minutes for both sides. 

The efficiency and speed of this burning station allowed us to burn all the wood for the board and batten cladding of the house in Esposende. Furthermore, this higher degree of flame control allowed us to achieve a uniform result for the boards to not warp and lose their integrity. 

For improvements of the burning station we would advise a metal plate on the lip of the openings for the board to rest on – otherwise it can mark the board. Additionally, a way to adjust the opening for different sizes of boards would increase the efficiency by reducing excess draft. 

Top Tips

Have an ample supply of fuel available to keep the fire well stocked and at a medium-high flame.If the flame is burning too high it is better to do a few quick passes to avoid over-charring the wood which can result in warping.Apply raw linseed oil after charring to compensate for loss of moisture and flexibility.If the wood does warp and you are using it for board and batten cladding, mount the board with the bend curving away from the wall to reduce pressure and prevent cracking. 

There are a few drawbacks of this method and these should be considered before employing this technique in your own projects. One is the time intensive nature of the process. The burning station was fired up most days of the 6 weeks of Esposende workshop. This works if there are many hands available to take on the relatively low-skill task and take turns amongst each other. However it may prove tiresome for a self-build project. The second drawback is the issue of smoke. At Critical Concrete HQ we have neighbours in close proximity, requiring us to build an extra tall chimney to prevent smoking out the neighbours. Having ample space is also a factor to consider. The actual working site of Esposende was relatively small, however, we were lucky to be able to use the quiet street, much to the amusement of the neighbours! Looking to our next renovation project we will need to contain construction activities as much as possible as the street is very narrow with no pavement. For situations when these drawbacks are apparent we endeavour to find more suitable solutions. 


New burning station

Yakisugi cladding on wooden substructure treated with TRICOIL

Swedish Paint / Flour Paint

Filling the requirements of cheap, scalable, non-toxic and accessible ingredients, Swedish Paint is an excellent choice. Swedish paint has long been used as the primary choice for wood protection in many Nordic countries. It can endure the harsh climate while offering an appealing aesthetic. 


Swedish Paint can last for up to a decade before a new application is needed.
Photo by Anders Nord

Method

This is a new method for us and we have tried out one recipe using the materials we had available in the workshop [2].

For 3 litres of paint the following measurements can be used:

300g of flour3l of water600g of pigment300ml of linseed oil

For pigment, we used red clay that we had left over from making a rammed earth floor and wood ash from a local saw mill. There are many options for pigment, do some research and see what is available in your local area. 

This is the very beginning of our research with Swedish paint so there will be more information to come in the future as we experiment with different recipes and ingredients. We will leave these samples outside to see how they withstand the weather.


Paint samples using wood ash and clay

References

[1] ​​https://www.artamin.it/impregnante-ad-olio-fatto-in-casa/

[2] https://engelleben-free-fr.translate.goog/index.php/recette-de-la-peinture-a-la-farine-protection-des-bois-exterieurs?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=ajax,elem&_x_tr_sch=http

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